Yes, Japanese men wear kimonos, but the garment is no longer part of daily wear. The use of the traditional robe in contemporary Japanese society is highly selective, marking it as cultural attire rather than everyday clothing. When a man chooses to wear a kimono, it is generally to honor a specific event or tradition, signifying the occasion’s importance and respect for cultural heritage. The kimono remains a symbol of national identity, recognized globally for its distinctive T-shape, even as its daily use has faded.
The Modern Context
The occasions that call for a man to wear a kimono today are generally formal, ceremonial, or deeply rooted in traditional arts. Men often wear the most formal style, the kuromontsuki haori hakama, for life events such as weddings, particularly if they are the groom or a close relative. The kimono is also worn for important milestones like the Coming-of-Age ceremony (Seijin-shiki) and for university graduation ceremonies, signaling a transition to a new phase of life.
Beyond personal milestones, the kimono is often required attire for participating in traditional Japanese cultural activities. This includes the disciplined environments of martial arts like Kendo or Aikido, where the hakama trousers are standard wear. It is also worn when attending a formal tea ceremony, where subdued colors reflect the meditative atmosphere. During summer, men frequently wear a lighter form of the garment when attending cultural festivals (matsuri) and firework displays.
Distinguishing Men’s Traditional Attire
The formal men’s kimono is a full-length, T-shaped robe constructed from high-quality materials such as silk or fine wool, often with a full lining. These garments are characterized by subdued colors like black, navy, or deep gray, emphasizing the fabric’s texture and drape rather than elaborate patterns. The formality level is determined by the fabric, the lining, and the number of family crests (kamon) present.
This formal robe is distinct from the yukata, a much more casual, unlined cotton or linen robe designed primarily for summer wear. The yukata is worn for relaxed settings like summer festivals or as loungewear at hot springs (onsen), and it features less-subtle patterns and colors than the formal kimono. Further down the spectrum of formality are the jinbei and samue, which are two-piece outfits consisting of a jacket and matching trousers. The jinbei is casual, short-sleeved summer wear made of light, breathable fabrics, while the samue was traditionally the work clothing of Zen Buddhist monks and is worn for manual labor or comfortable house wear.
Essential Components and Styling
The Obi (Belt)
A complete men’s kimono ensemble requires several specific components that dictate the overall level of formality. The obi, or belt, is significantly narrower and simpler than those worn by women, and it is tied lower around the hips. The most formal type is the stiff, woven kaku-obi, while the softer heko-obi is reserved for casual wear with a yukata.
Outerwear and Footwear
Over the kimono, a jacket called a haori is often worn, providing an extra layer of warmth and sophistication, and it is secured at the front with a decorative cord called the haori-himo. For the highest level of formality, the hakama, which are wide, pleated trousers resembling a divided skirt, are worn over the kimono. The color and fabric of the hakama and haori are coordinated with the kimono, with dark, solid colors being the standard for ceremonial attire. The outfit is completed with tabi (traditional split-toe socks) and either zōri (flat, formal sandals) or geta (raised, wooden clogs) for footwear.