The question of how to properly button a suit jacket is one of the most common elements of men’s style etiquette. The general principle is simple: you should almost never fasten every button on a single-breasted jacket. Adhering to established practices ensures the garment maintains its intended shape and aesthetic. This rule applies because modern tailoring is specifically cut to drape correctly when certain buttons remain unfastened.
The Definitive Rule for Two-Button Jackets
The standard two-button single-breasted suit jacket follows the “Always/Never” principle. The top button should be fastened when the wearer is standing, while the bottom button must always remain undone. This practice is rooted in both historical tradition and modern design.
This rule is often attributed to King Edward VII of England in the early 20th century. Due to his increasing girth, the King began leaving the bottom button of his waistcoat and later his jacket unfastened. His court followed suit as a sign of respect, and this custom eventually became the accepted sartorial standard globally.
The immediate reason for the rule lies in the engineering of contemporary suits. Modern jackets are cut so the bottom button sits below the natural waist, allowing the fabric to flare out slightly over the hips. Fastening this lower button pulls the material tight, creating visible strain, wrinkling across the torso, and causing the lapels to break awkwardly. Leaving it unbuttoned allows the jacket to hang smoothly, preserving the desired V-shape silhouette.
The etiquette also relates to comfort and garment longevity. To prevent popping buttons and excessive creasing, both buttons on a single-breasted jacket should be unfastened when sitting down. This simple action removes stress from the fabric and closures, allowing for a relaxed fit. Upon standing, the wearer should immediately re-fasten the top button to restore the jacket’s clean structure.
Applying the Rule to Three-Button Styles
The three-button single-breasted jacket, though less common, uses the “Sometimes, Always, Never” mnemonic, applied from the top button down. The principle focuses on securing the jacket at the natural waist while allowing the lower hem to move freely.
The middle button is the primary anchor and should always be fastened when standing, as this cinches the garment at the narrowest point of the torso. This placement ensures the jacket maintains its tailored shape and prevents the front panels from flapping open. The bottom button must never be fastened, mirroring the rule for the two-button jacket, to avoid bunching the fabric and distorting the drape.
The top button offers the only flexibility, hence the rule “Sometimes.” Whether to fasten it depends on the jacket’s specific cut and the placement of the lapel roll. On some styles, the lapel is designed to roll over the top button, making it redundant or awkward to fasten. If the top button is clearly visible above the lapel’s break point, it may be fastened alongside the middle button, though leaving it undone is acceptable.
The Complete Exception: Double-Breasted Suits
The only major exception to the “unbutton the bottom button” rule is the double-breasted suit jacket. Unlike single-breasted counterparts, these jackets are designed to be worn closed to maintain their structured, broad-shouldered appearance. They feature two parallel columns of buttons and require the front panels to overlap significantly across the chest.
The specific buttoning practice depends on the jacket’s configuration, described by a number-on-number system, such as 6×2 or 4×1. The first number indicates the total number of buttons, and the second indicates how many are functional fasteners. For the popular 6×2 style, which has six buttons but only two functional ones, the upper functional button is typically fastened.
Double-breasted jackets utilize a hidden interior button, sometimes called the jigger or anchor button, which must always be fastened first. This interior closure secures the overlapping panel, ensuring the jacket front remains flat and properly aligned. While some may leave the lower exterior button unfastened for a relaxed aesthetic, the overall requirement is to keep the front closed when standing to preserve its formality and structure.