Smoking a pork shoulder transforms a tough cut of meat into tender pulled pork through low-and-slow cooking, which breaks down connective tissues and renders fat. Deciding whether and when to wrap the pork shoulder is a debated topic among barbecue enthusiasts. This choice affects the final cooking time, the meat’s moisture level, and the quality of the exterior crust, known as the bark. Understanding the science behind the cook helps refine this technique for a perfect result.
Understanding the Smoking Stall
The stall is a natural phenomenon that occurs during the long cooking process. This is when the internal temperature of the meat rises steadily for several hours before suddenly plateauing. The temperature typically halts in the range of 150°F to 170°F and can last for hours, adding significant time to the cook.
The primary cause of the stall is a process called evaporative cooling. As the meat heats up, moisture from within the muscle fibers is slowly released to the surface. This moisture then evaporates, which draws heat away from the meat in a manner similar to how sweating cools the human body.
The cooling effect from the evaporation balances the heat being supplied by the smoker, preventing the internal temperature from rising. The stall persists until all the surface moisture has been depleted, allowing the internal temperature to begin climbing again.
The Decision: Wrapped vs. Unwrapped Pork Shoulder
Intervening in the stall by wrapping the meat is a technique often called the “Texas Crutch.” Tightly sealing the pork shoulder eliminates evaporative cooling, thereby speeding up the cook time considerably. Wrapping traps the moisture and heat, allowing the internal temperature to quickly rise past the plateau.
Cooking the pork shoulder unwrapped, however, prioritizes the development of a thick, dark, and flavorful bark. Leaving the meat exposed allows the necessary moisture to escape, which is how the exterior dries and the sugars and proteins on the surface develop into a firm crust through the Maillard reaction. This approach yields the deepest smoke flavor penetration.
The trade-off for speed and moisture retention is the quality of the bark. When the meat is wrapped, the trapped moisture creates a steamy environment that softens the crust. This results in a less firm bark compared to a fully unwrapped cook. The choice depends on whether the cook values a shorter cooking time and higher moisture retention, or a superior, crisp bark and maximum smoke flavor.
The wrapped method also introduces a form of braising, as the rendered fat and juices are sealed in with the meat. This liquid environment further aids in tenderizing the pork shoulder. For cooks aiming for the most tender result in a predictable timeframe, wrapping is a reliable technique to manage the long, low-temperature cook.
Executing the Wrap and Finishing the Cook
If the decision is made to wrap, the process should begin once the internal temperature of the pork shoulder reaches the stall range, typically around 165°F. This temperature indicates that the meat has absorbed sufficient smoke flavor and the exterior has had time to form a foundational bark. Wrapping too early can limit smoke absorption and compromise the texture of the finished crust.
The choice of wrapping material significantly impacts the final product. Aluminum foil provides the maximum barrier, trapping all moisture and creating the most humid, insulated environment. This is the fastest method for getting through the stall, but it is also the most likely to result in a soft, almost steamed bark.
Butcher paper, often referred to as peach paper, is a popular alternative because it is more breathable than foil. It still retains enough moisture to push the meat past the stall, but its porous nature allows some steam to escape. This helps preserve the bark texture better than foil while still accelerating the cooking process.
Once wrapped, the pork shoulder is returned to the smoker until it reaches a final internal temperature of approximately 200°F to 205°F. At this point, the collagen has fully broken down into gelatin, and the meat should be probing tender. The wrapped meat must then rest for at least one hour to allow the muscle fibers to relax and reabsorb the juices, maximizing tenderness and moisture.