Dermaplaning does not inherently create acne, but the procedure can lead to temporary breakouts or irritation if performed incorrectly or on compromised skin. This physical exfoliation removes the outermost layer of dead skin cells and fine vellus hair, leaving the skin temporarily vulnerable. Understanding the treatment mechanics and reasons for post-procedure irritation is important. The risk of a breakout is manageable through proper technique and diligent aftercare, making it a safe option for many skin types.
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a method of physical exfoliation that uses a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel to gently scrape the skin’s surface. The technique is performed at a precise 45-degree angle to remove the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of dead skin cells. This process also effectively removes vellus hair, commonly known as “peach fuzz.”
The primary goal is to reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath the buildup of dead cells and hair. Removing this surface layer immediately improves skin texture and brightness, creating a smoother canvas for makeup application. An additional benefit is the enhanced penetration of topical skincare products, as the barrier of dead cells is no longer present.
The Direct Answer: Dermaplaning and Acne
Dermaplaning itself does not cause the formation of new acne lesions, but it can easily exacerbate existing conditions. The procedure is safe for clear skin or skin with mild congestion, but it is strongly contraindicated for skin with active, inflamed acne. Performing the treatment over open lesions, whiteheads, or cystic acne is the primary way it can trigger a significant breakout.
The mechanical action of the blade can rupture active lesions, spreading P. acnes bacteria and inflammatory material across the face. This bacterial transfer leads to new areas of inflammation and infection, often mistaken for the procedure having “caused” the acne. A licensed professional will assess the skin beforehand and refuse to perform the treatment on areas with active inflammation to prevent this complication.
Why Breakouts Occur Post-Procedure
Temporary skin irritation or the appearance of small bumps after dermaplaning is often a reaction to the procedure or aftercare, rather than true acne. Irritation and inflammation caused by improper technique, such as using excessive pressure or a dull blade, is one common mechanism. This can lead to temporary redness or the development of small, non-acne bumps known as folliculitis, which is inflammation of the hair follicles.
Another frequent cause is a product reaction on the newly exposed, sensitive skin. Since the top layer of dead cells has been removed, the skin is more receptive to topical products. Heavy, comedogenic, or irritating ingredients can clog pores more easily. Using thick creams or oil-based makeup too soon after the procedure can trap oil and debris, leading to congestion.
The temporary disruption of the skin barrier post-exfoliation also makes the skin vulnerable to environmental factors. The protective barrier is momentarily compromised, increasing sensitivity and making it easier for bacteria from unwashed hands or contaminated makeup brushes to enter the pores. This vulnerability requires gentle care to allow the barrier to recover fully.
Preventing Post-Dermaplaning Breakouts
Preventing post-procedure irritation begins with ensuring the treatment is performed by a licensed professional using sterile, medical-grade tools. A professional will properly cleanse the skin and confirm it is free of active lesions before beginning exfoliation. This minimizes the risk of spreading bacteria and ensures the technique is appropriate for the skin’s current condition.
Aftercare is equally important, focusing on supporting the skin barrier and avoiding potential irritants for the first 48 to 72 hours. Immediately following the procedure, the skin requires strict sun protection; a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is non-negotiable, as the new skin is highly susceptible to UV damage. Patients should also avoid intense physical activity that causes excessive sweating for at least 24 hours, as sweat can irritate the freshly exfoliated skin.
The post-treatment skincare routine should be simplified to gentle, non-comedogenic, and hydrating products. Temporarily discontinue the use of harsh active ingredients, such as retinoids, glycolic acid, or salicylic acid, which can cause stinging and inflammation on sensitized skin. Using lightweight, oil-free moisturizers and avoiding touching the face will help maintain a clean environment and support healing.