Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a popular, fast-growing broadleaf evergreen shrub valued for its dense growth habit and lustrous, dark green foliage that remains vibrant year-round. Native to southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia, it is highly adaptable, tolerating both sun and shade. This plant is chosen for its ability to quickly establish and provide structure in various garden applications.
Determining Spacing Based on Goal
The correct planting distance for Cherry Laurel is determined by the desired function of the mature plant, whether it will form a screen or stand as an individual specimen. Planting for a hedge requires tighter spacing to encourage the canopies to merge quickly and form a continuous visual barrier. This close proximity forces the plants to grow upward rather than outward, maximizing vertical coverage and density.
For a quick and dense hedge or privacy screen, a planting distance is between 60 to 90 centimeters (about 2 to 3 feet) between plants. Reducing the distance to as little as 50 centimeters (two plants per linear meter) will result in an almost instant hedge effect, as the foliage of the young plants will touch sooner. Closer spacing achieves faster canopy closure but requires consistent pruning to prevent overcrowding as the plants mature.
When the goal is to create a stand-alone shrub, often called a specimen plant, the required spacing must allow the plant to reach its full, natural spread without restriction. This wider spacing promotes a more rounded, natural shape and reduces competition for light, water, and soil nutrients. For the standard Cherry Laurel species, which can mature to a width of 6 to 10 feet or more, the spacing should reflect this ultimate size.
A general guideline for specimen planting is to place the plant at a distance equal to or greater than its expected mature width, often 8 to 12 feet (2.5 to 3.7 meters) for large varieties. This ensures the shrub develops its full, multi-stemmed structure and allows for proper air circulation around the foliage. Overcrowding specimen plants can lead to poor air flow, which may increase the risk of fungal issues like leaf spot.
Selecting the Right Cultivar
The selection of a specific cultivar impacts the required planting distance because different varieties have distinct mature sizes and growth habits. Choosing a cultivar that is too large for the space will inevitably lead to excessive maintenance or overcrowding, regardless of the initial careful spacing. Knowing the genetic potential of the plant is necessary before any planting begins.
For gardeners with limited space or a need for a low border, dwarf varieties offer a solution to avoid excessive pruning. The ‘Otto Luyken’ cultivar is a popular example, known for its compact, spreading habit, typically maturing at only 3 to 4 feet tall with a spread of 5 to 7 feet. When using a dwarf form for a low hedge, a closer planting distance of 1.5 to 2 feet may be appropriate to ensure a uniform, dense line.
Conversely, large cultivars such as ‘Rotundifolia’ or the common English Laurel can reach heights of 15 to 20 feet with a similar spread. These varieties are suitable for tall, wide privacy screens and require the widest spacing, often a minimum of 4 to 6 feet apart even for a hedge, to manage their expansive growth. Their rapid growth rate, which can be 1 to 2 feet annually, quickly fills the space between plants.
An intermediate option is the upright-growing ‘Schipkaensis’ (Schip Laurel), often favored for narrow hedges. This variety grows to about 5 to 8 feet wide and 4 to 5 feet high, possessing a more vertical structure than the common species. Planting ‘Schipkaensis’ at 3 to 4 feet apart allows for a dense, tall screen without consuming as much lateral space as the broader cultivars.
Planting Techniques for Success
The planting process focuses on preparing the soil. The planting hole must be dug to a width that is at least twice that of the root ball, allowing the roots ample space to expand into the loosened soil. The hole should be no deeper than the root ball itself, ensuring the top of the root crown sits level with the surrounding soil surface.
The soil at the bottom of the hole should be loosened with a spade or fork to prevent compaction and allow for easy root penetration into the native ground. Cherry Laurel requires well-drained soil; if the existing soil is heavy clay, amending it with organic compost or coarse sand will improve drainage and aeration. Adequate drainage is important because the plant will not tolerate standing water, which can lead to root rot.
Before placing the plant, the roots should be inspected, and any roots that are tightly circling the root ball should be loosened or scored to encourage outward growth. The plant is then carefully positioned in the center of the hole, ensuring it remains upright and at the correct depth. Backfill the hole with the excavated soil, firming it around the root ball to eliminate any air pockets.
The final step is to water the newly planted shrub to settle the soil. Following this initial watering, a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, should be applied around the base of the plant. The mulch helps conserve soil moisture and moderates soil temperature, but it should be kept a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.