The effectiveness of any hair product depends significantly on the method of its application. Improper use can undermine the product’s function, leading to common styling frustrations such as hair that feels sticky, stiff, or greasy. Understanding how to correctly apply a product ensures it delivers its intended benefits, from building lasting volume to providing a smooth, shiny finish.
Foundational Rules for Application Success
Always start with clean hands. This prevents the transfer of dirt, natural oils, or residues that can compromise the product’s performance and the hair’s final appearance.
The amount of product used is governed by the “less is more” principle. Begin with a minimal amount, such as a dime-sized dollop for creams or one pump for oils, and only add more if the initial application is insufficient. Over-applying product is the most common cause of weighed-down hair, limp styles, or a greasy look because excess product sits on the surface.
Before touching the hair, distribute the product evenly across your palms and between your fingers. This emulsification process warms the product slightly and ensures your hand is coated, which helps achieve uniform application. Applying a concentrated dollop directly to one spot results in heavy buildup, making it difficult to spread throughout the rest of the hair.
Techniques for Volume and Hold Products
Products formulated for volume and hold, such as mousse and gel, are applied to damp or wet hair before the drying process. Applying to hair that is wet, but not dripping, allows the product’s polymers to disperse evenly around the shaft, setting the hair’s shape as it dries. A golf ball-sized amount of mousse or a water bottle cap-sized amount of gel is generally appropriate, varying based on hair density and length.
For maximum lift, focus the application of mousse or gel primarily on the roots and mid-lengths of the hair. Distribute the product using raking motions with your fingers or a wide-toothed comb to ensure every strand is lightly coated. The scrunching technique, where hair is gently compressed toward the scalp, is effective for encouraging natural texture and enhancing curl definition.
After applying, the product must be allowed to set, usually activated by heat from a blow-dryer or by air-drying. For those seeking volume, concentrate the heat toward the roots while lifting the hair with a brush or your fingers to lock in the lift. If a firm hold gel is used, the initial stiffness or “cast” should not be broken until the hair is completely dry, which prevents frizz and maintains the style.
Techniques for Smoothing and Defining Products
Smoothing and defining products, including serums, oils, and pomades, are used to add shine, control frizz, and refine the finished style. These products are applied to hair that is dry or mostly dry, as their function is to coat the outer layer of the hair shaft. For oils and serums, start with one or two drops in your palm and rub your hands together to warm the product, which improves its flow and distribution.
The most effective application for these products is from the mid-shaft down to the ends, avoiding the scalp and root area. Applying oil or serum near the roots can quickly make the hair appear heavy and greasy because this area already receives natural oils. Focusing on the ends helps seal the cuticle to reduce frizz and create a high-gloss finish.
Pomades and waxes are used differently, often by warming a small amount between the fingertips to make them pliable. Apply them by lightly twisting or separating small sections of hair. This technique is useful for creating a piece-y, defined texture or for smoothing down flyaways at the hairline. Reapplying a small amount of oil or serum to dry hair can also serve as a touch-up to refresh shine and tame frizz on second-day hair.
Applying Finishing Products
The final step in styling involves using finishing products, which are aerosols designed to lock the style in place or introduce surface texture. Hairspray should be held 10 to 12 inches from the head during application to ensure the mist lands evenly. Spraying too closely concentrates the product in one spot, resulting in a sticky, stiff residue.
Applying hairspray in light, sweeping layers provides a flexible hold that resists humidity without making the hair feel hard or crunchy. For targeted hold, such as securing flyaways, lightly mist the product onto your fingertips or a fine-toothed comb and then smooth it over the desired area. This technique allows for precision without coating the entire style.
Texture and dry finishing sprays are used to add grip, volume, and an undone appearance to dry hair. To maximize volume, lift sections of hair and spray the product directly at the roots and through the mid-lengths while holding the can several inches away. Flipping the head upside down and misting the underside of the hair before tousling it helps to build lasting body.