Suede is a type of leather known for its soft, velvety feel, which comes from the unique texture of its surface fibers. This texture is called the nap, consisting of tiny, raised fibers created when the underside of the animal hide is exposed and finished. Brushing is the primary method for maintaining suede, as it cleans the material by removing surface dirt and revives the flattened or matted nap. Regular brushing prevents the suede from becoming permanently stained or worn down, ensuring the material retains its characteristic soft appearance.
Gathering the Right Tools and Pre-Cleaning
The process begins with selecting the appropriate tools, which are designed to clean the delicate fibers without causing damage. A dedicated suede brush is the standard tool, often featuring soft natural bristles, nylon, or a combination of brass and synthetic fibers. For general maintenance and delicate suede, a soft-bristled horsehair brush is suitable. A brass or combination brush is better for stubborn dirt and deep scuffs, while a crepe brush uses sticky, natural rubber to gently pull dirt and surface stains out of the nap.
Before any brushing occurs, the suede must be completely dry, as cleaning wet suede can push dirt deeper into the fibers and cause permanent discoloration. Once dry, inspect the item for loose debris, which can be gently wiped away with a clean, dry cloth. For small, dry marks or scuffs, use a suede eraser—a block of rubber or crepe material—for spot treatment. The eraser works by creating friction that lifts the stain and raises the matted nap in a localized area.
The Step-by-Step Brushing Technique
The actual brushing technique involves a two-part approach: initial cleaning and nap restoration. To remove loose surface dirt and dust, gently brush the entire surface in one consistent direction, following the natural lay of the nap. This initial pass sweeps away particles resting on the surface. After this initial cleaning, focus on any areas where the nap is matted or where dirt is embedded, such as around the heel or toe of a shoe.
For these tougher spots, use short, firm strokes, brushing back and forth or in a circular motion to loosen the deeper grime and lift the flattened fibers. If using a combination brush, the brass bristles are effective, but pressure must be kept light to moderate to avoid scratching the suede. Excessive force can permanently damage the delicate structure of the nap, leading to bald spots or visible scratch marks. After using the suede eraser on scuffs, the area must be brushed immediately to remove the eraser residue and any lifted dirt particles.
The eraser is used by applying moderate pressure directly over the dry stain until the mark begins to fade. This targeted action is effective for water spots and surface blemishes that a brush alone cannot dislodge. The subsequent brushing action then fluffs the pile, blending the treated area back into the surrounding texture.
Restoring the Nap and Final Inspection
The final stage of the process is dedicated to achieving a uniform and consistent appearance across the entire suede item. To restore the nap, gently brush the entire surface one last time in a single, uniform direction. This action aligns all the tiny fibers, resulting in a smooth, even texture and a consistent color tone. Since the nap reflects light differently depending on its direction, uniform brushing ensures the suede does not appear patchy or unevenly shaded.
Once the nap is restored, a final inspection should confirm that all scuffs and dirt have been removed and the texture is uniform. As preventative care, consider applying a specialized suede protector spray. These sprays create a barrier that helps repel moisture and stains, significantly reducing the likelihood of future damage. Allow the item to air dry completely after applying the protector to ensure the barrier fully cures.