Suede, with its soft, napped finish, offers a luxurious texture often found in footwear and apparel. However, this delicate material is highly porous and lacks the protective outer layer of traditional leather, making it particularly susceptible to absorbing moisture and dirt. While many assume cleaning suede requires professional intervention, routine maintenance and targeted treatment for stains are achievable at home with the correct supplies and techniques. Understanding the unique nature of suede fibers is the first step toward successfully restoring your shoes to their best appearance.
Essential Tools and General Suede Maintenance
Routine care is the most effective way to prevent permanent damage. Suede maintenance relies on a dedicated suede brush, which often features nylon or brass bristles, designed to lift and clean the material’s short, raised fibers, known as the nap. Always use the brush with short, gentle strokes, moving consistently in one direction to remove loose surface dirt and dust.
When the suede nap becomes flattened or matted, gentle, multi-directional brushing can help restore the texture. For minor scuffs, marks, or dried-on dirt that brushing alone cannot resolve, use a suede eraser or a specialized art gum eraser. Rub the eraser gently across the imperfection to lift the stain and abrasive particles from the nap.
Following the use of the eraser, brush away the resulting debris with the suede brush. If the nap still appears flat or shiny, holding the shoe over a source of steam for a few seconds can help loosen the fibers. Once the suede is slightly damp, immediately brush the area to fluff the nap and restore its appearance, then allow the shoes to air dry completely.
Handling Specific Stains and Marks
Treat spills immediately, as the porous nature of suede quickly allows liquids and oils to set. For mud, allow the stain to dry completely and harden before attempting removal. Once fully dry, use the suede brush to gently flake away the dried mud, then use the eraser to address any remaining discoloration.
Oil or grease stains require an absorbent material to absorb the oil from the suede fibers. Immediately cover the affected area with a generous amount of an absorbent powder, such as cornstarch or talcum powder. Allow the powder to sit for a minimum of a few hours, or ideally overnight, to fully draw out the oil before brushing away the residue.
Water stains often leave a distinct tide mark on the suede. To address this, lightly moisten a clean cloth with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol and gently blot the stained area, taking care not to saturate the material. The slight acidity of the vinegar helps break down the mineral deposits that create the ring, and the solvent nature of alcohol can help lift the mark.
For substances like gum or wax, the goal is to make the material brittle enough to chip away. Place the shoe in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer for about 30 to 60 minutes until the substance is frozen solid. Once hardened, gently scrape the frozen substance off the suede using a dull knife or the edge of a credit card, being careful not to gouge the material.
Protecting Suede from Future Damage
Once your suede shoes are clean and dry, proactive protection minimizes future wear and staining. The primary defense against moisture and spills is a water and stain repellent spray specifically formulated for suede and nubuck materials. Before applying the product to the entire shoe, test it on a small, inconspicuous area to ensure the color remains fast and the texture is unaffected.
Hold the spray can approximately six to eight inches away from the shoe and apply a light, even mist across the entire surface. Applying two light coats, allowing the shoe to dry fully between applications, is more effective than one heavy layer. Reapplication should occur periodically, such as after a thorough cleaning or every few months, to maintain the protective barrier.
Proper storage also plays a role in the longevity of suede footwear. Avoid leaving suede shoes in direct sunlight for extended periods, as this can cause the color to fade prematurely. To help the shoe maintain its shape and prevent creasing, stuff the toes with acid-free tissue paper or use wooden shoe trees, which also help absorb internal moisture.