Converting an existing sprinkler head to a drip line is an effective method for conserving water and delivering moisture directly to plant root zones. This conversion utilizes the established underground plumbing, including the valve and water line, simplifying the setup of a new irrigation system. By replacing the sprinkler head with a specialized adapter, you shift from the broad, high-volume spray of a sprinkler to the slow, targeted emission of a drip system. This change allows for longer watering durations that encourage deeper root growth, while minimizing water loss through overspray and evaporation.
Required Tools and Components
The unique requirements of a drip system necessitate specific components to manage water flow and pressure. Sprinkler systems typically operate at higher pressures, often between 40 to 90 pounds per square inch (PSI), which is far too high for drip emitters. Therefore, a pressure regulator is necessary, typically reducing the flow to a range between 15 and 30 PSI, which is the optimal operating pressure for most drip components.
Because drip emitters have very small openings, sediment or debris in the water supply can cause immediate clogging. To prevent this, a filter, such as a screen filter, must be integrated into the system right after the conversion point. Many sprinkler-to-drip adapter kits include a combination of a pressure regulator and a filter within a single assembly.
You will also need polyethylene (poly) tubing, usually in a half-inch diameter, which serves as the main line for the new drip network. Smaller, quarter-inch micro-tubing is used to branch off the main line to individual plants, where various emitters and micro-sprayers are installed to release water. The type of emitter used, such as pressure-compensating drippers, should be chosen based on the plant’s water needs and the landscape’s slope to ensure uniform water delivery. Basic hand tools like a shovel for excavation, pipe wrenches or pliers, and a tubing cutter or utility knife will also be needed.
Installing the Drip Riser Adapter
The physical conversion begins by ensuring the water supply to the entire irrigation zone is shut off at the main valve. Next, carefully excavate the soil around the existing sprinkler head to expose the riser and the pipe connection below the surface. The goal is to create enough space to comfortably work without allowing loose soil to fall into the open pipe.
With the riser exposed, unthread the existing sprinkler head from the riser pipe, removing the entire head assembly. Preventing dirt or debris from entering the exposed pipe is essential, as this material will travel down the line and immediately clog the new drip filter and emitters. A simple method to mitigate this risk is to briefly turn on the water to flush out debris that may have fallen in, catching the expelled water and dirt with a cup or rag.
Once the line is clear, thread the new drip riser adapter or manifold onto the existing pipe thread, which is typically a half-inch male pipe thread. If the existing riser is too short, a threaded nipple can be used to bring the connection point up to ground level. The adapter should be hand-tightened to create a secure seal; thread seal tape can be used on the threads to prevent leakage.
Running the Drip Lines and System Testing
With the drip adapter secured, connect the main poly tubing to the manifold or conversion elbow. This half-inch tubing establishes the network for water distribution and should be laid out to cover the area, often following garden beds or pathways. The tubing should be positioned as close as possible to the plants you intend to water. Allowing the tubing to warm in the sun makes it more flexible and easier to install onto the compression fittings.
Once the main line is in place, smaller, quarter-inch micro-tubing is connected using small barbed fittings inserted into the half-inch line with a punch tool. This micro-tubing is then run directly to the base of each plant, where the appropriate emitter is installed to deliver water. For plants with larger root balls, like shrubs or small trees, multiple emitters or a short loop of micro-tubing should be used to ensure uniform saturation of the entire root zone.
Before installing all the emitters, the system must be flushed to remove any fine particles or sediment that may have entered the lines. Turn on the water briefly with the ends of the tubing open to allow water to run clear, then cap the ends or install the final emitters. Test the completed system by checking for leaks at all connections and fittings, and observe the emitters to confirm they are discharging water at the correct rate, typically measured in gallons per hour.