A dripping bathroom faucet is a common household nuisance that wastes hundreds of gallons of water annually, increasing utility bills and potentially contributing to mildew growth. Addressing this issue promptly is a straightforward home maintenance project that requires common tools and a basic understanding of faucet mechanics. The source of the leak is almost always a degraded internal component, which can be easily replaced to restore the faucet’s proper function and stop the unnecessary water loss.
Essential Preparation and Faucet Identification
Before beginning any repair, the water supply to the faucet must be shut off. Locate the shut-off valves directly beneath the sink basin and turn them clockwise until the flow stops. If these valves are absent or faulty, use the main water shut-off valve for the entire house. Laying a towel in the sink and closing the drain will help prevent small parts from falling down the plumbing during the repair process.
Gathering the necessary tools simplifies the process, typically requiring an adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, and penetrating oil to loosen stubborn components. It is advisable to have replacement parts, such as various sized washers or O-rings, or a complete repair kit designed for the specific faucet brand. Identifying the type of faucet is the next step and dictates the repair path, as there are two primary designs in residential bathrooms.
A compression faucet is recognized by its separate hot and cold handles that require a tight, screw-down action to stop the flow of water. A cartridge or disc faucet is characterized by a single handle that moves smoothly up, down, or side-to-side to control both temperature and flow. Understanding this distinction is necessary because the internal mechanisms that prevent dripping are entirely different between the two styles.
Repairing Internal Components
Compression Faucets
The majority of drips in a compression faucet are caused by a worn-out rubber washer at the base of the stem that seals against the valve seat. To access this component, the decorative cap and handle must be removed, usually by unscrewing a small set screw located beneath the handle. Once the handle is off, use the adjustable wrench to unscrew the large hex-shaped packing nut that holds the stem assembly in place within the faucet body.
The entire stem assembly can then be pulled straight out, revealing the small rubber washer at the bottom that has likely hardened or deteriorated. Use a screwdriver or small pick to remove the old washer, and replace it with a new one of the exact same size and thickness to ensure a proper seal. If the drip persists after replacing the washer, the underlying valve seat, which is the metal surface the washer presses against, may be pitted or damaged.
The valve seat is located deep inside the faucet body and can be removed using a specialized seat wrench. Once the seat is extracted, replace it with an identical new part, ensuring it is seated flush and tight to provide a smooth sealing surface. Reassemble the stem, packing nut, and handle in reverse order, being careful not to overtighten the packing nut, which could restrict the handle’s movement.
Cartridge and Disc Faucets
Repairing a cartridge or disc faucet requires focusing on the internal cartridge unit or the small O-rings that seal the unit against the faucet housing. Begin by prying off the decorative cap on the handle and loosening the set screw that secures the handle to the cartridge stem, allowing the handle to be lifted away. A retaining clip or nut often holds the cartridge in the faucet body, which must be removed before the cartridge can be pulled straight out.
Once the cartridge is free, inspect its exterior for any visible damage. The more common issue is the failure of the small rubber O-rings seated around its base. These O-rings maintain the watertight seal and tend to flatten or crack due to friction and water impurities. Use a small, non-marring tool to remove the old O-rings and replace them with new ones lubricated with silicone grease to facilitate smooth movement and a better seal.
If the O-rings appear sound or if the faucet is leaking from the spout, the entire cartridge unit itself may need replacement. When removing the old cartridge, note its orientation and any alignment tabs, as the new cartridge must be inserted in the exact same position for proper water mixing. Inserting a pre-assembled replacement cartridge is the most reliable fix for these faucets, as it restores the internal ceramic or plastic discs responsible for flow control.
Troubleshooting Persistent Drips
Once the repair is complete, test the faucet by slowly turning the water supply valves back on. Listen for any immediate hissing sounds, which could indicate a loose connection, and carefully check all joints and seams for signs of leakage before restoring full pressure. If the drip has returned or persists, the problem likely lies in a component that was overlooked during the initial repair.
In compression faucets, a common post-repair failure is a damaged valve seat that was not replaced, or the use of an incorrect washer size that cannot fully compress to stop the flow. For cartridge faucets, a persistent leak often points to a small crack in the cartridge housing or a failure to correctly seat the retaining clip. Ensure that all components are fully tightened, but avoid excessive force that could strip the metal threads.
If the faucet continues to leak despite replacing the washers, O-rings, and the entire cartridge, the issue may be beyond a simple component replacement. Problems such as a hairline fracture, stripped threads, or corrosion necessitate a more involved repair. If replacement parts for an old or specialty fixture cannot be located, consult a licensed plumbing professional.