A silk press is a temporary straightening treatment for natural hair that uses heat tools to achieve a sleek, flowing finish without chemical relaxers. The frustration of seeing that smooth style quickly poof or swell into frizz is a common experience for many who opt for this look. The goal of a silk press is to temporarily restructure the hair’s natural curl pattern, but environmental factors often challenge the longevity of the style. Understanding the reasons behind the reversion and having a plan to address existing frizz can help keep the hair looking polished.
Immediate Solutions for Existing Frizz
When frizz has already appeared, the immediate focus should be on smoothing the hair with minimal heat and product to avoid weighing down the strands. For localized areas of frizz, particularly at the perimeter or the part line, a light touch of finishing serum or dry oil can be applied sparingly. This light product application helps to temporarily lay down the raised hair cuticles that create the frizzy texture.
To address stubborn flyaways or minor puffiness at the roots, an edge brush or clean toothbrush can be used with a tiny amount of the smoothing product. The brush allows for precise application to the localized area without disturbing the rest of the style, working to gently press the errant hairs into alignment. If the frizz is more widespread or involves a partial reversion, low-heat touch-ups may be necessary to restore the sleekness.
A quick pass with a flat iron, using the “chasing method,” can effectively re-smooth the hair shaft. This technique involves placing a fine-toothed comb directly in front of the flat iron as you glide it down the hair section. This combination ensures the hair is fully stretched and smoothed in a single pass, limiting the heat exposure to the hair. When using the flat iron for a touch-up, it is important to keep the temperature on a low setting, generally below 325 degrees Fahrenheit, and only pass over the section once to prevent heat damage.
Understanding Why Silk Presses Frizz
The primary reason a silk press begins to frizz is the hair’s natural desire to revert to its coiled or curly state when exposed to moisture. A silk press works by temporarily breaking the hydrogen bonds within the hair structure to straighten the strand. These bonds are extremely sensitive to water, meaning any introduction of moisture from the environment allows the bonds to reform and the hair to revert.
High humidity introduces water vapor into the air, which the hair strand readily absorbs, causing the shaft to swell and the outer layer, the cuticle, to lift. When the cuticle lifts, the hair texture becomes rougher, leading to the visible puffiness and frizz. Hair that is highly porous or has existing damage tends to absorb this environmental moisture more quickly, making it more prone to frizzing and style breakdown.
Physical friction also contributes to the breakdown of the sleek style and the formation of frizz. Activities like sleeping without proper protection or excessive touching create mechanical stress that causes the cuticle layers to rub against each other and lift. Once the cuticle is lifted, the hair is even more vulnerable to absorbing moisture and beginning the reversion process.
Proactive Maintenance for Longevity
Maintaining the sleek finish of a silk press requires a regimented nightly and daily routine focused on moisture defense and friction avoidance. One of the most effective nightly techniques is the “doobie wrap,” where the hair is brushed around the head in a circular pattern and secured with pins or a wrap. This method preserves the straightness and creates movement memory in the hair while also protecting the ends from friction.
Alternatively, pin-curling the hair by rolling sections and securing them with clips is an effective way to maintain body and curl at the ends without needing to apply heat daily. After wrapping or pin-curling, the hair should be covered with a silk or satin scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. These smooth materials significantly reduce the friction that can cause the outer layer of the hair to lift and frizz while sleeping.
For daily defense against the environment, it is helpful to use products designed to create a barrier against moisture. Anti-humidity sprays and lightweight glossing mists contain ingredients that repel water and shield the hair from absorbing moisture from the air. These products should be applied lightly, as over-application can lead to the hair becoming weighed down and attracting dirt. Avoiding environments with high steam, like long, hot showers, and protecting the roots from sweat during physical activity are also necessary steps to prolong the sleekness of the style.
Physical friction also contributes to the breakdown of the sleek style and the formation of frizz. Activities like sleeping without proper protection or excessive touching create mechanical stress that causes the cuticle layers to rub against each other and lift. Once the cuticle is lifted, the hair is even more vulnerable to absorbing moisture and beginning the reversion process.
Proactive Maintenance for Longevity
Maintaining the sleek finish of a silk press requires a regimented nightly and daily routine focused on moisture defense and friction avoidance. One of the most effective nightly techniques is the “doobie wrap,” where the hair is brushed around the head in a circular pattern and secured with pins or a wrap. This method preserves the straightness and creates movement memory in the hair while also protecting the ends from friction.
Alternatively, pin-curling the hair by rolling sections and securing them with clips is an effective way to maintain body and curl at the ends without needing to apply heat daily. After wrapping or pin-curling, the hair should be covered with a silk or satin scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. These smooth materials significantly reduce the friction that can cause the outer layer of the hair to lift and frizz while sleeping.
For daily defense against the environment, it is helpful to use products designed to create a barrier against moisture. Anti-humidity sprays and lightweight glossing mists contain ingredients that repel water and shield the hair from absorbing moisture from the air. These products should be applied lightly, as over-application can lead to the hair becoming weighed down and attracting dirt. Avoiding environments with high steam, like long, hot showers, and protecting the roots from sweat during physical activity are also necessary steps to prolong the sleekness of the style.