Achieving big, voluminous curls transforms the hair into a style of loose, bouncy waves rather than tight, defined ringlets. This look focuses on creating soft movement and lift that appears effortless and full. Mastering this technique requires attention to the tools used, the preparation of the hair, and the specific method of heat application.
Choosing the Right Barrel Size
The diameter of the curling iron barrel determines the size and looseness of the final wave. For the desired “big curl” effect, use a barrel size between 1.25 inches (32mm) and 2 inches (50mm). Using a smaller barrel results in a tighter curl that will not relax into a voluminous wave. The 1.5-inch size is often considered the ideal middle ground for creating soft, flowing waves.
The material of the iron also influences the quality of the curl and hair health. Ceramic barrels distribute heat evenly, which helps prevent damaging hot spots. Tourmaline, a crushed crystalline mineral, emits negative ions when heated. These negative ions help to neutralize the positive ions in dry or damaged hair, resulting in a smoother cuticle, reduced frizz, and enhanced shine.
Adjustable heat settings are important for customizing the process to your specific hair type. Fine or damaged hair requires a lower temperature, typically below 350°F (177°C), to prevent heat stress. Thicker or coarser hair requires a higher setting, around 375°F to 400°F (190°C to 204°C), to ensure the heat penetrates the strand and sets the curl effectively.
Prepping Hair for Volume and Hold
Proper preparation protects the hair from heat and builds a foundation that supports the curl’s structure. The first step involves applying a heat protectant spray evenly throughout the hair before any heat is introduced. This product forms a barrier on the hair shaft, slowing the rate of heat transfer and helping to maintain the hair’s internal moisture balance.
Hair must be completely dry before the curling iron is applied, as using a hot tool on damp hair can cause significant damage. After the heat protectant, a volumizing product, such as a mousse or root lift spray, should be worked into the hair, focusing on the roots and mid-lengths. These products contain polymers that add texture and grip, which is necessary for fine or silky hair that tends to lose its shape quickly.
The Big Curl Curling Technique
The curling process begins by dividing the hair into manageable sections, starting with the bottom layer near the nape of the neck. For big curls, the sections should be larger than those used for tight ringlets, typically about one to one-and-a-half inches wide. Using larger sections creates a looser wave pattern and contributes to the overall voluminous look.
The most flattering technique for achieving a voluminous style is to wrap the hair away from the face on both sides of the head. This outward direction pulls the hair away from the facial features, creating a lifted, open look. To achieve a smooth, polished wave, wrap the hair flat against the barrel, ensuring the entire section contacts the heat source.
A slight twist in the hair before wrapping it around the iron can introduce more texture and a tousled appearance. Hold the iron in place for five to ten seconds, depending on hair thickness and heat setting, allowing the heat to penetrate the section. A common technique is to leave the last inch or two of the ends out of the clamp, which keeps them straighter for a modern, relaxed finish.
Setting and Finishing for Lasting Volume
The process of setting the curl after heat application is important for ensuring longevity. Once the curl is released from the iron, allow it to cool completely before being touched or manipulated. The hair’s shape is temporarily altered by the heat, but the internal keratin bonds reform and lock the new shape into place as the hair cools.
For maximum hold, gently pin each warm curl to the scalp using a metal clip, preserving the coiled shape while it cools. This pinning technique is particularly helpful for hair that struggles to maintain a curl. Once the entire head has cooled, mist a light-hold hairspray over the pinned sections to provide flexible support without weighing down the volume.
The final step involves releasing the pinned curls and gently breaking them up to transform the defined spirals into soft, voluminous waves. Run a wide-tooth comb or your fingers through the hair, starting at the mid-lengths. Brushing the curls out softens the definition, blends the sections, and creates the desired effect of big, flowing volume.