Spanish lavender, Lavandula stoechas, is a distinctive evergreen shrub prized for its unique floral display and aromatic foliage. This species is native to the Mediterranean Basin, which explains its natural tolerance for heat and dry conditions. It is often referred to by common names such as butterfly lavender or rabbit’s ears due to its unusual appearance.
The plant’s most recognizable feature is the dense, cone-shaped flower head topped with showy, petal-like structures called bracts. These colorful bracts, which can be purple, pink, or white, emerge from the top of the bloom, giving the appearance of wings or ears fluttering above the main flower spike. Unlike the sweet scent of some other lavender types, the foliage of Spanish lavender has a more pungent, camphoraceous aroma when crushed.
Essential Site and Soil Conditions
Spanish lavender requires a location that receives full sun exposure, meaning a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, to thrive and produce abundant blooms. Planting in a spot that receives less light will result in sparse flowering and a leggy growth habit. The plant’s Mediterranean origin dictates its absolute need for excellent drainage, as it is highly susceptible to root rot from standing water.
The ideal growing medium is poor, sandy, or gravelly soil, which mimics its native habitat. Rich, fertile soil is generally detrimental because it retains too much moisture and can encourage excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers. Gardeners with heavy clay soil must amend it significantly with grit or coarse sand, or plant the lavender in a raised bed or on a mound to ensure water quickly drains away from the root crown.
Good air circulation is also a requirement for maintaining plant health, especially in areas with high humidity. Crowding the plant or placing it too close to walls or dense foliage can trap moisture around the leaves, increasing the risk of fungal diseases. Proper spacing helps the foliage dry quickly after rain or watering.
Planting and Initial Establishment
The best time to plant Spanish lavender is in the spring after the last expected frost, once the soil has begun to warm up. Planting in early fall is also an option, allowing the roots to establish before the onset of winter dormancy. When placing the plant, the hole should be dug only as deep as the nursery container, ensuring the top of the root ball sits level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.
Proper spacing between plants is necessary to promote the required air circulation. After setting the plant in the ground, backfill the hole with the native or amended soil and tamp it gently to remove air pockets. While established Spanish lavender is drought-tolerant, new plants require consistent, deep watering for the first growing season to develop a robust root system.
A deep watering once a week is typically sufficient for the first year, allowing the soil to dry out almost completely between applications. This practice encourages the roots to grow downward in search of moisture. Once the plant is established, usually by the second year, the watering frequency can be significantly reduced.
Long-Term Care and Pruning
The most common cause of failure is overwatering, which leads to root rot. Watering should be infrequent and deep, allowing the soil to become quite dry between applications, often only every two to three weeks in the absence of rain. The plant is adapted to nutrient-poor soils, so fertilization is rarely necessary and can be counterproductive.
Applying fertilizer, particularly those high in nitrogen, encourages soft, leggy growth and can diminish the plant’s characteristic fragrance and flowering potential. If the plant is in extremely poor soil, a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring may be considered, but this is often unnecessary.
A consistent, two-part annual pruning schedule is essential for long-term health and abundant flowering. The first pruning occurs immediately after the initial flush of blooms in late spring or early summer, involving deadheading the spent flower spikes and lightly shearing back about one-third of the green growth to encourage a second round of flowering. The second, slightly heavier pruning should take place in late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost, helping to shape the plant into a compact mound and preventing it from becoming overly woody and sprawling.
Avoid cutting into the old, leafless, woody stems during any pruning. Spanish lavender does not reliably regenerate new growth from this old wood, and cutting into it can create dead spots or even kill the entire plant. All cuts should be made into the soft, green growth, leaving a small amount of foliage on the stem to ensure successful regrowth.
Container Growing and Winter Protection
Spanish lavender is well-suited for container growing, which allows gardeners to control the soil and drainage precisely. When planting in a pot, select a container with multiple drainage holes and use a highly porous, well-draining potting mix, such as one formulated for cacti or succulents. Unglazed terracotta or clay pots are often preferred because they wick away excess moisture from the soil, further preventing root rot.
Potted plants will require more frequent watering than those in the ground, as the soil dries out faster, but the rule of allowing the soil to dry completely between waterings still applies. Due to nutrient leaching from frequent watering, container-grown lavender may benefit from a very light, infrequent feeding during the growing season. Repotting every few years into a slightly larger container with fresh soil helps maintain vigor.
Spanish lavender is generally hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 10, but its roots are more vulnerable to cold when confined in a pot. In colder climates (Zone 7 and below), container plants must be protected during winter. Move the pot to an unheated, bright, and cool location, such as a garage or shed, where temperatures remain above freezing but below 65°F to allow for dormancy. For in-ground plants in Zone 7, a protective layer of gravel or lightweight mulch around the base can help insulate the roots from extreme cold.