Full-time recreational vehicle living during the colder months presents unique challenges requiring careful planning. Successfully navigating winter weather demands a proactive approach to insulation, heating, and moisture control. The goal is to maintain a comfortable interior environment while preventing costly damage to the vehicle’s systems, particularly the plumbing. Preparing the RV thoroughly before the first freeze ensures a safe and enjoyable experience throughout the season.
Fortifying the RV’s Exterior and Interior
The first defense against freezing temperatures is creating a thermal barrier around the RV’s perimeter to minimize heat loss from the floor. RV skirting is highly effective, trapping still air beneath the vehicle to insulate against the cold ground. This reduces cold air circulation around the underbelly where water lines and tanks are located.
Common skirting materials include heavy-duty vinyl or rigid foam insulation boards. Hay bales are discouraged because they attract rodents seeking warmth. The skirting must be secured tightly to the ground and the RV body to prevent wind from compromising the insulating air pocket.
Windows and roof vents are major sources of heat transfer. Covering windows with reflective foil insulation, such as Reflectix, significantly reduces heat loss by reflecting radiant heat back into the living space. This material can be cut to size and secured with tape, especially on windows not frequently used.
Install heavy, thermal curtains over all windows to add insulation, particularly at night. For roof vents and skylights, custom-cut foam inserts block rising heat. These inserts should be removed periodically to allow for necessary ventilation.
Slide-outs introduce large seams and uninsulated surfaces. Check the seals around the edges for gaps and apply weather stripping to prevent air infiltration. Insulating the top and bottom of the slide-out, often with foam board, helps prevent cold air from penetrating the floor and ceiling.
Inspect the RV’s underbelly for holes or gaps where utility lines enter or exit. These openings allow cold air to rush in and freeze exposed pipes or fittings. Sealing these penetrations with expanding foam or specialized sealant protects the systems housed within the enclosed space.
Protecting the Plumbing and Water System
Preventing the water system from freezing is the most important step in winter RV preparation, as burst pipes lead to extensive water damage. When connected to a city water source, a standard garden hose will freeze quickly, requiring a heated water hose. These hoses contain an internal heating element and thermostat that maintain the water temperature above freezing, ensuring continuous flow.
If a heated hose is unavailable, disconnect and drain the standard hose after each use, relying on the RV’s onboard fresh water tank. Exposed drain pipes and dump valves should be wrapped with electrical heat tape. The tape provides localized warmth and must be covered with foam insulation to trap the heat and protect the tape.
For stationary RVs, installing 12-volt tank heater pads on the fresh, gray, and black water tanks is a reliable preventative measure. These adhesive pads are thermostatically controlled, activating when the tank temperature drops near 40 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent contents from solidifying. Since the pads draw power from the battery bank, monitoring battery levels is necessary.
The “dry camping” method involves completely draining and bypassing the RV’s internal plumbing. This requires using bottled water and external facilities for showering and waste disposal. While less convenient, this method eliminates the risk of internal pipe damage, making it a viable option for extreme cold.
Avoid leaving the sewer hose connected and open to the drain, as the constant flow of water and waste can freeze inside the hose, creating an ice dam. Instead, use the “quick dump” method: allow the gray and black tanks to fill, and then empty them completely in a single, rapid discharge.
Plumbing lines often run through cabinets and storage areas not directly heated by the main furnace. Opening cabinet doors, especially those under sinks or near the water pump, allows warm air from the living space to circulate around the pipes. This simple action can prevent freeze-up in vulnerable interior sections.
Safe and Efficient Heating Strategies
Maintaining a comfortable interior temperature requires balancing heating sources, efficiency, and safety. The RV’s built-in propane furnace heats the entire living space and often directs warm air into the underbelly to protect the tanks. However, the furnace consumes significant propane and draws substantial 12-volt battery power to run the blower fan.
Monitoring propane levels closely is necessary due to the furnace’s high fuel consumption. Many RVers supplement the furnace with electric heaters when connected to shore power to conserve propane. Safe electric heaters, such as ceramic or oil-filled radiator models, provide quiet, consistent heat without consuming propane.
When using electric heaters, monitor the amperage draw to avoid overloading the RV’s electrical system or tripping breakers. Standard 1500-watt heaters draw about 12.5 amps, and using multiple high-wattage appliances can quickly exceed the capacity of 30-amp service. Oil-filled heaters provide a sustained, gentle heat that cycles less rapidly.
Alternative heating sources, such as catalytic or radiant propane heaters, provide localized heat with high efficiency. These heaters operate without a fan and consume little propane, making them suitable for boondocking or supplementing the main furnace. Since they are unvented combustion appliances, they consume oxygen and require proper ventilation to be used safely.
Working smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are mandatory when using any combustion heating source. Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas that can be deadly, so detectors must be checked monthly. Unvented combustion appliances, such as gas ovens or stovetops, must never be used inside the RV for warmth due to the risk of fire and carbon monoxide poisoning.
Controlling Condensation and Moisture
Condensation forms when warm, moist air inside the RV meets cold surfaces like windows and walls. This is exacerbated because the RV is tightly sealed to keep heat in, trapping moisture generated by breathing, cooking, and showering. If left unchecked, this moisture leads to mold and mildew growth, which can damage the RV structure and pose health risks.
The most effective tool for managing interior moisture is a small electric dehumidifier, which actively removes water vapor from the air. A dehumidifier can collect several pints of water daily, lowering the relative humidity inside the RV to a safer level, ideally below 50 percent. Running the dehumidifier continuously is necessary, especially after cooking or showering.
Some ventilation is required to allow saturated air to escape the living space. Cracking a roof vent or a window slightly allows moist air to exit while minimizing heat loss. This controlled exchange of air helps prevent the buildup of stale, moisture-laden air that contributes to condensation.
Wiping down cold surfaces, particularly windows and window frames, daily is an effective preventative measure. Removing visible water prevents it from soaking into curtains or bedding, which are prime locations for mold spores to germinate. A small squeegee or microfiber cloth makes this task efficient.
Use small circulating fans to keep air moving throughout the RV, preventing pockets of stagnant, moist air from forming. Air circulation helps equalize the temperature across different surfaces, reducing the differential that causes condensation. Placing fans near windows or in storage areas helps dry out surfaces before mold takes hold.