Creating a full skirt offers a rewarding sewing experience, yielding a versatile garment that combines comfort with elegant movement. The design, characterized by a gathered waist and flowing fabric, suits various styles and occasions, from casual wear to more formal events. Making your own skirt allows for personalized fit and fabric choice, ensuring a unique addition to any wardrobe.
Essential Tools and Materials
A reliable sewing machine is fundamental, alongside sharp fabric scissors for precise cutting and a seam ripper for correcting any mistakes. A measuring tape, pins, and an iron are also needed for accurate construction and pressing seams.
Fabric choice significantly influences the skirt’s drape and appearance. Lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, broadcloth, or rayon are often recommended for full skirts due to their excellent drape and breathability. For a more structured skirt, a stiffer fabric might be chosen, while a looser, flowier skirt benefits from light and airy fabrics like chiffon or cotton voile. Matching thread is essential for a cohesive finish, and you will need either elastic or a zipper, depending on your preferred waistband style.
Taking Measurements and Cutting Fabric
Begin by measuring around your natural waistline, where you intend the skirt to sit. Then, determine the desired skirt length by measuring from your waist down to where you want the hem to fall, adding approximately 2 to 3 cm (about 0.8 to 1.2 inches) for hem allowance.
The fabric width needs to be significantly larger than your waist measurement. A common ratio for gathering is 1.5 to 3 times your waist measurement, with 2 times being a good general option for a moderately gathered skirt. For example, if your waist is 30 inches, a fabric width of 60 inches (30 inches multiplied by 2) would provide a flowing gathered skirt.
For lighter fabrics, you can use a higher ratio, even up to 4 times the hip circumference for very full gathers. Cut your main skirt panel as a large rectangle with this calculated width and your desired length, plus seam allowances. If your fabric isn’t wide enough, you can cut two or more panels and sew them together to achieve the desired total width.
Constructing Your Full Skirt
Sew the side seams of your skirt panels together, right sides facing. After stitching, press the seam allowances open. The next step involves gathering the top edge of your skirt panel to fit your waistband. This is typically done using two rows of long basting stitches along the top edge, without backstitching. Sew the first row about 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge and the second row 1/4 inch below the first, leaving long thread tails at both ends.
Gently pull the bobbin threads from one end, easing the fabric along the threads to create even gathers. Distribute the gathers uniformly until the gathered edge matches the length of your waistband. If using an elastic waistband, create a casing by folding the top edge of the skirt down, typically 1/2 inch, then another 2 inches, and stitching it in place, leaving a small opening to insert the elastic. For a fitted waistband with a zipper, attach the waistband to the gathered skirt edge, right sides together, ensuring the gathers are evenly distributed. The zipper is then inserted into one of the side seams or the back seam, typically an invisible zipper for a seamless look.
Hemming and Styling Options
Finishing the skirt involves hemming the bottom edge to prevent fraying and provide a polished look. A common and simple method is a double-fold hem, where the raw edge is folded up twice and then stitched. For lightweight or sheer fabrics, a narrow hem or rolled hem might be preferred to avoid bulk. If the skirt has a curved hemline, a narrow hem can be particularly effective to maintain the shape without puckering.
Styling a full skirt allows for personalization. You can adjust the length to create a mini, midi, or maxi skirt, each offering a distinct aesthetic. Adding pockets to the side seams provides functionality and can be a subtle detail. Different waistband finishes, such as a simple elastic casing for comfort or a fitted waistband with a zipper for a more tailored look, also impact the overall style. Full skirts pair well with fitted tops to balance the volume or can be styled with graphic tees and sneakers for a casual, modern look.