A half slip is a foundational undergarment worn beneath skirts and dresses to provide a smooth layer. Its primary function is to prevent outer garments from clinging to the body, often caused by static electricity or fabric friction. Creating a custom half slip allows for precise control over fit and length. This approach also provides the freedom to select specialized fabrics, resulting in a comfortable garment tailored to specific wardrobe needs.
Preparation: Materials, Tools, and Measurements
Selecting anti-static fabrics is recommended for a half slip. Options like polyester lining, charmeuse satin, or natural silk provide a smooth drape and minimize static cling. You will need a coordinating spool of all-purpose polyester thread and a length of 1-inch wide elastic. The elastic should be approximately 80% of your waist circumference for comfortable tension.
Gathering the necessary tools ensures an efficient workflow. A standard sewing machine, sharp fabric shears, and a measuring tape are foundational items. An iron and ironing board are necessary for pressing seams flat, which improves the garment’s final appearance. A seam ripper and sewing pins complete the basic toolkit.
Accurate body measurements are necessary before cutting to ensure a proper fit. Measure the circumference of your natural waist and the fullest part of your hip. Determine the desired finished length of the slip by measuring from your waist down to where you want the hem to fall, typically just above the knee or mid-calf.
Drafting and Cutting the Fabric Pieces
For a simple half slip, the pattern can be drafted directly onto the fabric. Calculate the total width needed for the slip panels by taking the hip measurement plus an ease allowance of 4 to 6 inches for comfortable movement. This total width is then divided between the front and back panels, which are typically cut identically.
Determine the length of the fabric pieces by adding the desired finished length to the seam allowances for the waist and the hem. For example, if the finished length is 24 inches, adding 1 inch for the waist casing and 1 inch for a narrow hem results in a total cut length of 26 inches. Maintain a consistent seam allowance, such as 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch, on all side edges for accurate assembly.
To prepare the fabric for cutting, fold it lengthwise, aligning the selvage edges to ensure the pieces are cut on the straight grain. Lay the measurements onto the fabric, ensuring the longest edge runs parallel to the grainline for optimal drape. Carefully cut out the front and back panels using sharp shears, ensuring the lines are smooth before moving to construction.
Step-by-Step Assembly and Construction
Construction begins by joining the side seams of the front and back panels to form the slip’s tube shape. Place the two fabric pieces right sides together, aligning the raw side edges with pins. Stitch the seams using the predetermined seam allowance, typically 1/2 inch, from the top raw edge down to the hemline.
The raw edges of the side seams should be finished to prevent fraying. A French seam is an excellent choice for lingerie, as it fully encases the raw edge within the seam allowance, providing a smooth interior finish. Alternatively, a simple zigzag stitch or serger can be used along the raw edges to stabilize the fibers. Press the finished seams flat and toward the back of the garment to set the stitches.
Casing Method
One common method for attaching the elastic waistband is creating a casing at the top edge. Fold the top raw edge down toward the wrong side by 1/4 inch and press it. Fold the edge down a second time by the width of your elastic plus a small allowance for ease (e.g., 1 1/4 inches for a 1-inch elastic), and pin the fold in place. Stitch the casing close to the inner folded edge, leaving a 1-inch opening for inserting the elastic.
Stretch-and-Sew Method
Alternatively, the stretch-and-sew method creates a flatter, less bulky waistband, often preferred for thinner fabrics. Mark the elastic and the top edge of the slip into four equal quarters. Align the quarter marks and pin them together. Using a wide zigzag stitch, sew the elastic to the top edge while stretching the elastic to match the fabric length between each pin.
Once the elastic is attached, fold the elastic down toward the wrong side of the fabric. Stitch the folded edge down using a second row of zigzag stitching, which fully encloses the raw edge and secures the elastic.
For the casing method, thread the elastic through the opening using a safety pin. Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1 inch and secure them with a tight zigzag stitch.
The final structural element is the hem, which requires a narrow, even finish to maintain the slip’s drape. Turn the bottom raw edge up toward the wrong side by 1/4 inch and press the fold line. Turn the edge up a second time by 3/4 inch, which fully encloses the raw edge. Stitch the hem close to the inner folded edge, ensuring the stitching line is consistent around the circumference.
Customization and Finishing Touches
Adding decorative elements like lace or trim can personalize the half slip. If desired, the lace can be attached to the finished hemline by overlapping the straight edge of the lace slightly over the slip fabric. Use a narrow zigzag stitch to secure the lace, ensuring the stitching catches both the lace and the slip fabric.
A final pressing of the garment is necessary to give the slip a professional appearance. Pressing all seams, the waistband, and the hem removes any residual wrinkles or distortions caused by the sewing process. After pressing, try on the slip to check the comfort of the elastic tension and the length, making minor adjustments if necessary for a perfect fit.