The high cost of custom framing often prevents people from displaying their favorite art and photographs. Professional framing services can easily cost hundreds of dollars. Learning to construct your own frames offers a satisfying and accessible alternative. This approach allows for complete control over the aesthetic while drastically reducing the financial barrier to showcasing your work. The following methods provide cheap ways to create professional-looking displays using common materials and minimal specialized tools.
The Classic Wood Frame Method
Constructing a frame from inexpensive lumber provides the most traditional and professional result for a low cost. Materials like 1×2 pine boards or pre-milled picture frame molding are widely available at hardware stores and offer a sturdy foundation. Shoppers can often find usable pieces in the scrap bins of lumberyards, further reducing the material expense for smaller projects. This method requires careful measurement and cutting to ensure the final product is square and structurally sound.
The most defining feature of a classic frame is the 45-degree miter cut required at each corner to form a clean, seamless joint. Achieving this angle is possible with an inexpensive plastic miter box and a handsaw, though a powered miter saw offers greater precision and speed. Once the four sides are cut to the correct length, the corners are joined using strong wood glue and reinforced with small brad nails or specialized frame screws. Clamping the corners tightly while the glue cures is necessary to create a strong, gap-free joint.
A traditional frame requires a recess, known as a rabbet, along the inside back edge to hold the art, matting, and backing board securely. Creating a rabbet typically involves using a router, which can be an expensive tool. A simpler, low-cost alternative is to construct the frame without a rabbet and then attach thin strips of screen molding or small wooden dowels to the inside back perimeter. These strips create a functional ledge that holds the art package in place, eliminating the need for specialized routing equipment. This technique maintains the clean look of the frame face while simplifying construction.
Ultra-Budget Frames from Recycled Materials
Framing art does not require a trip to the lumberyard, as many sturdy options can be created using upcycled household materials. Thick corrugated cardboard, often sourced from large shipping boxes, can be layered to create a rigid and deep frame structure. Cutting multiple identical pieces of cardboard and stacking them with glue provides the necessary depth and strength to hold the art and its backing. The rough edges of the cardboard can then be covered with decorative paper, fabric, or paint to achieve a clean, finished appearance.
Another simple, tool-free method involves creating a clip-style display using a rigid backing board like foam core or thin plywood. The art is placed directly onto the backing, and the edges are secured using small binder clips or wooden clothespins attached to the board’s perimeter. This approach provides a functional, industrial aesthetic that works well for posters or casual photographs. The clips hold the art firmly in place while also serving as the decorative element.
For a rustic look, thin, salvaged wood pieces, such as pallet slats or reclaimed fence pickets, offer a unique framing material that often avoids the need for precise miter cuts. These pieces can be cut to length and simply overlapped at the corners, forming a border that embraces the imperfections of the material. This method is highly forgiving of minor measurement errors and requires only basic tools for cutting and assembly. The natural weathering of the found wood provides an immediate, textured finish.
Modern Frameless and Floating Displays
Non-traditional framing methods offer a minimalist aesthetic that focuses attention entirely on the artwork while keeping material costs low. One popular modern technique involves using two pieces of thin, inexpensive acrylic sheeting, often called Plexiglass, cut slightly larger than the artwork. The art is sandwiched between the two acrylic sheets, which provides protection without the visual distraction of a traditional frame border. This method is lighter and safer than using glass, making it suitable for large pieces.
To secure the acrylic sheets and create a floating effect, small metal bolts or standoffs are drilled through the corners of the entire assembly. These standoffs hold the two sheets together while also creating a small gap between the art and the wall surface. The resulting display appears to hover, giving the artwork a clean, gallery-like presentation. This technique is effective for displaying graphic prints or photographs where the surrounding wall color acts as a subtle border.
A simpler, frameless option uses magnetic or poster hangers, which require only four thin strips of wood or dowels. Small magnets are embedded into the wood strips, allowing two strips to clamp the top edge of a print and two to clamp the bottom. The top set of strips includes a simple hanging cord, allowing the print to hang freely against the wall. This method is ideal for large posters or prints that are frequently rotated, as the art can be swapped out quickly.
Finishing and Hanging Your DIY Frame
Once the frame structure is complete, a few final steps are necessary to prepare it for display. Even the cheapest lumber can be transformed by applying a simple wood stain, paint, or a light distressing technique to enhance its texture. For protection, thin acrylic sheets or clear plastic film offer a low-cost, shatterproof alternative to traditional glass. This protective layer is placed over the art before the backing board is inserted.
The art package, consisting of the art, protective layer, and backing board (such as foam core), must be secured tightly within the frame structure. This is typically accomplished using flexible metal points or small brad nails that are pushed or bent over the edge of the backing board. These points hold the package firmly against the frame’s rabbet or the screen molding ledge, preventing the art from shifting.
Finally, the appropriate hardware must be attached to the back of the frame for hanging. For smaller, lighter frames, a simple sawtooth hanger centered at the top edge is sufficient. Larger or heavier frames benefit from the stability of two D-rings attached to the sides, connected by a length of picture wire. This wire allows the frame to hang level from a single wall hook, distributing the weight evenly.