Soy sauce is a fermented condiment that provides a rich, umami flavor. Traditional production methods are complex, often involving culturing the mold starter, which is challenging for home cooks. This simplified approach bypasses the most difficult initial stage, making the process accessible. The resulting sauce, known as shoyu in Japan, yields a product far more nuanced than most store-bought varieties.
Gathering Your Simple Ingredients and Tools
The simplified method relies on four core ingredients: soybeans, salt, water, and pre-inoculated koji starter. Using pre-made koji is the shortcut, eliminating the need to cultivate the Aspergillus oryzae mold at home. This mold provides the powerful enzymes required for flavor development. For a traditional shoyu flavor, use a mix of cooked soybeans and roasted, cracked wheat, which provides the necessary starches for fermentation.
The salt must be non-iodized, as iodine can interfere with microbial activity during fermentation. Equipment needed includes a large pot for cooking the soybeans. The most important item is a food-grade fermentation vessel, such as a glass jar or ceramic crock, which must be thoroughly sanitized before use. Finally, you will need a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth for the final extraction step.
Active Steps: Preparing the Moromi Mash
The active preparation begins by soaking the soybeans overnight to rehydrate them. After soaking, the beans are cooked or steamed until they are soft enough to be crushed between your fingers, but not mushy. This texture allows the koji enzymes to penetrate the bean structure effectively. The cooked soybeans and roasted wheat must be cooled below 85°F (30°C) before proceeding, as high heat will destroy the koji mold.
Once cooled, the cooked grains are mixed with the koji starter and salt, ensuring the mold is evenly distributed. Water is then added to create the moromi mash. The salt is typically dissolved in the water first to create a brine, which controls the microbial environment and prevents unwanted bacteria growth. The entire mixture is then transferred to the sanitized fermentation vessel and sealed.
The Wait: Fermentation, Pressing, and Bottling
The moromi mash now enters the fermentation period where the koji enzymes perform their work. The enzymes, primarily protease and amylase, break down the complex proteins in the soybeans and the starches in the wheat. Protease hydrolyzes proteins into amino acids, including glutamic acid, which is the source of the umami flavor. Amylase converts the starches into simple sugars, contributing to the sauce’s sweetness and color.
This enzymatic breakdown is followed by a secondary fermentation driven by lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, which produce organic acids and aromatic compounds. The ideal aging time for the moromi is between six and twelve months, though some brewers ferment it longer for a deeper flavor. The fermentation vessel should be kept at a consistent, moderate temperature, ideally between 60°F and 75°F (15°C and 24°C).
The moromi requires occasional stirring to ensure the mash ferments evenly and prevent surface mold from developing. This stirring also introduces oxygen, which is necessary for the yeast to produce aromas. After the desired aging time, the liquid soy sauce must be separated from the solids, a process known as pressing or shibori. This involves placing the mash into a fine-weave cloth bag or cheesecloth and gently pressing it to extract the raw liquid.
The final steps involve pasteurization and bottling to ensure shelf stability. Pasteurization involves heating the raw soy sauce to around 160°F (70°C) for a short period, which halts enzymatic activity and kills remaining microorganisms. This heat treatment also initiates a Maillard reaction between the amino acids and sugars, deepening the sauce’s color and enhancing its aroma. Once cooled, the finished soy sauce can be bottled in sterilized containers for long-term storage.
