The term “mending a fly line” has a dual meaning in fly fishing, referring both to the physical repair of the line’s structure and a specific casting technique used on the water. Fly lines represent a significant investment, and learning to repair them can substantially extend their lifespan. This article focuses on practical, do-it-yourself methods for physical line repair, addressing damage like nicks, cuts, and broken loops. The ability to fix a damaged line ensures a more consistent and successful fishing experience.
Repairing Minor Coating Damage
Minor damage, such as small nicks, cracks, or scrapes that expose the line’s braided core, must be addressed quickly to prevent water absorption. A water-logged core causes a floating line to sink and degrades casting performance by creating friction as it passes through the rod guides. The goal of this repair is to restore a smooth, water-impervious surface.
Flexible adhesives like Aquaseal or flexible cyanoacrylate (CA) glue are the preferred solution because they maintain elasticity after curing. The repair process begins by thoroughly cleaning and drying the damaged area to ensure a strong bond. Gently folding the line at the point of damage widens the gap, allowing a minimal amount of adhesive to be applied directly into the exposed core using a fine applicator like a toothpick.
After applying the adhesive, straighten the line to close the gap, and wipe away any excess material that squeezes out. A moistened finger can be used to smooth the remaining adhesive, ensuring the repair is flush with the original line coating. This creates a seamless transition that minimizes friction during casting. For a longer, shallow scrape where the core remains intact, apply a thin layer of adhesive followed by a light wrapping of fine fly-tying thread for reinforcement. A final, thin coat of flexible adhesive over the thread completes the repair, providing a durable, smooth patch.
Fixing a Severed Line or Broken Loop
A broken welded loop is a common point of failure, but it is a straightforward repair. The heat-shrink tubing method offers a clean and strong way to create a new loop that is nearly as smooth as a factory weld. The first step involves cutting off the damaged loop and any cracked line, then doubling the line back on itself for about a half-inch to form the new loop.
A small piece of heat-shrink tubing, typically 2/32-inch in diameter, is then slid over the doubled-over section, extending past the point where the line overlaps. Applying a drop of superglue to the overlap before sliding the tubing on helps secure the loop’s shape during the heating process. Heat is then carefully applied to the tubing, ideally with a heat gun on a low setting, or a lighter held a safe distance away, to shrink the tubing tightly around the line.
Splicing a Severed Line
Splicing a completely severed line or one with a large, irreparable section requires a more involved technique to maintain the line’s integrity and casting profile. The damaged section must be cut out, and the coating on the two remaining ends must be stripped back to expose the braided core for about an inch and a half. The two exposed cores are then overlapped and secured with a whip finish of fine fly-tying thread, creating a continuous, knotless connection.
This served splice is then coated with a flexible epoxy or a thick, flexible adhesive to seal the core and smooth the transition between the line sections. The goal is to create a connection that is as thin as the original line, preventing a hinge effect that would disrupt the transfer of casting energy. A properly executed splice ensures the line’s weight-forward taper is preserved, allowing the line to shoot through the guides without snagging.
Essential Tools and Materials for Fly Line Repair
A small, dedicated kit of materials is necessary to perform these repairs effectively, whether at home or in the field. Flexible PVC or urethane adhesives, such as Aquaseal or UV-curing resin, are needed for sealing nicks and coating splices due to their ability to flex with the line’s movement. Flexible cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is useful for quickly securing the overlap when forming a new loop.
Heat-shrink tubing, in small diameters like 2/32-inch, is required for the loop repair method, providing a durable, smooth sleeve that fuses the line ends. A sharp razor blade or fine scissors is necessary for making clean, precise cuts to the line and trimming excess material.
Fine applicators, such as toothpicks or bodkins, allow for the precise placement of adhesives, preventing the application of too much material which would create a bulky lump. For splicing a severed line, fine fly-tying thread, typically 8/0 or smaller, and a bobbin holder are used to tightly wrap and secure the overlapped cores. A heat source, such as a small heat gun or a lighter, is needed to shrink the tubing for loop repairs. Having these items readily available ensures that a damaged line can be quickly returned to service.
Mending the Line on the Water
The second meaning of “mending” refers to a casting technique used to achieve a “drag-free drift,” which is the most natural presentation of a fly to a fish. Drag occurs when the current pulls on the fly line at a different speed or angle than the fly itself, causing the fly to move unnaturally across the water’s surface. The mend is the act of repositioning the fly line’s “belly” on the water to counteract the forces of the current.
The execution of a mend involves lifting the rod tip to pick the line off the water and flipping a section of it either upstream or downstream before gently laying it back down. This technique is not a one-time action but a continuous process, often requiring multiple small adjustments during a single drift to maintain the fly’s natural presentation.
An upstream mend is used when the current between the angler and the fly is moving faster than the current where the fly is located. By throwing a loop of line upstream, the angler introduces slack that the faster current must pull out before it begins to drag the fly. This action effectively slows the line’s movement relative to the fly, extending the drag-free drift.
Conversely, a downstream mend is necessary when the current near the angler is slower than the current holding the fly, causing the line to lag and pull the fly upstream. Flipping a loop of line downstream repositions the slack, allowing the fly to continue its natural drift without being prematurely pulled by the slower line. Mastering both mends is essential for successful fly fishing in varied currents.