A permanent wave, widely known as a perm, is a chemical service designed to restructure straight hair, adding lasting texture, waves, or curls. This procedure utilizes specialized solutions to modify the internal structure of the hair shaft, allowing it to hold a new, styled shape for several months. The perm has recently seen a resurgence in popularity within men’s hairstyling, fueled by social media trends and the desire for a low-maintenance, textured aesthetic. Modern techniques focus on delivering natural-looking results, ranging from subtle body waves to more defined coils, moving away from the tightly curled styles of decades past. The treatment offers a straightforward method to achieve volume and movement their natural hair type may lack.
Preparing Hair for the Perm
The process begins with a consultation to determine the desired curl pattern and assess the hair’s current condition. The stylist evaluates the hair’s porosity, texture, and overall health to select the appropriate perming solution and rod size, ensuring the best outcome. This assessment helps prevent potential damage, particularly on hair that has been previously colored or treated.
It is recommended that the hair not be freshly washed immediately before the appointment, ideally skipping shampooing for about 24 hours. Natural oils on the scalp offer protection against the alkaline perming solutions, which can cause irritation. Any necessary trimming or shaping should be performed before the chemical application begins. This ensures the curls will fall into the desired shape once the process is complete.
The Perming Procedure
The permanent wave procedure involves a two-step chemical process that alters the hair’s disulfide bonds. Hair is first divided into sections, and the stylist wraps individual strands around perm rods. The size of these rods determines the resulting curl’s diameter, with smaller rods yielding tighter curls and larger rods creating looser waves.
Once the hair is secured on the rods, the waving lotion, a reducing agent typically containing ammonium thioglycolate, is applied. This alkaline solution penetrates the hair shaft, breaking the disulfide bonds within the hair’s keratin protein structure. Breaking these bonds softens the hair’s inner structure, making it pliable and conforming to the rod’s shape. The solution is left to process, and the stylist monitors the hair, occasionally performing a test curl to check that the hair is sufficiently restructured.
After processing, the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water while the rods remain in place, removing the reducing agent. The second chemical, a neutralizer containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, is then applied. This solution reforms the disulfide bonds in their new, curled configuration, permanently locking the hair into the rod’s shape. The rods are removed after a final waiting period, and the hair is rinsed once more to complete the transformation.
Post-Perm Maintenance
The first 48 to 72 hours following the service are important for the longevity of the new curl pattern. During this time, the reformed disulfide bonds need to fully set, so the hair must not be washed, wet, or subjected to excessive manipulation. Any moisture or friction can disrupt the newly established structure, leading to a weak or inconsistent set.
For ongoing care, clients should switch to sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, as sulfates can strip the hair of moisture and cause the curls to relax prematurely. Permed hair tends to be drier due to the chemical treatment, making moisturizing products beneficial for maintaining softness and definition. Air-drying is the gentlest method, but a diffuser attachment can be used on a blow dryer on a low heat setting to encourage curl formation and add volume. Consistent conditioning and minimizing heat styling will help preserve the shape and health of the treated hair.
Common Men’s Perm Styles
The modern men’s perm offers a range of aesthetic outcomes determined by the choice of perm rod size and wrapping technique. For a high-texture look, smaller rods create tight, defined coils that maximize volume and curl density. This style is often paired with a faded or closely cropped side and back to provide a clean contrast.
A different approach uses larger rods to produce a loose, natural-looking wave, sometimes referred to as a texture perm or body wave. This result adds movement and a soft bend to the hair rather than distinct curls, appealing to those seeking a relaxed appearance. Focus perms are also popular, where the chemical application is limited to a specific area, typically the longer hair on the top section. This technique allows men with short sides to maintain the length they desire on top while adding a defined, lasting texture.