A waxed amaryllis consists of a large bulb encased in a thick layer of decorative wax. This coating is designed to be self-sufficient, sealing in all the moisture and nutrients the bulb requires to produce its initial flowering stalk. The bulb is sold this way to create a low-maintenance, temporary display that requires neither watering nor soil. While this configuration maximizes ease of display, the bulb’s viability is finite once the initial stored energy is depleted. Transitioning the bulb into a traditional growing environment is necessary to encourage long-term health and subsequent flowering cycles.
Immediate Care for the Waxed Bulb
Upon bringing a waxed amaryllis home, place the bulb in an area that receives bright, indirect light. This encourages the flower stalk, or scape, to grow upright without stretching toward a single light source. Maintaining a consistent room temperature, between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, helps stimulate the metabolic processes required for the bloom to emerge.
The wax coating serves as a protective barrier, preventing moisture loss and supplying structural support and energy for the initial growth. Because of this sealed environment, no supplemental watering or soil is necessary while the bulb is actively flowering. Attempting to water the bulb while the wax is intact can lead to fungal growth or rot around the basal plate.
The time it takes for the flower stalk to emerge and open can vary based on the cultivar and storage conditions prior to purchase. Generally, the initial bloom cycle takes approximately three to six weeks from the time the bulb is placed in its display location. Once the flower heads have fully opened and the blossoms begin to fade, the bulb has expended its reserved energy. This signals that the temporary phase is complete and preparation for long-term planting should begin.
Preparing the Bulb for Soil
The transition from a waxed state to a potted state begins immediately after the last flower on the stalk has withered and collapsed. The entire flower stalk should be carefully cut back to about one inch above the top of the bulb, conserving the bulb’s remaining energy. Removing the wax is the most delicate step, requiring careful attention to avoid damage to the bulb’s surface and the basal plate.
To remove the coating, gently peel away the wax in large sections, starting from the top where the stalk emerged. If the wax is particularly hard or adhered tightly, soften it by briefly running the bulb under lukewarm water. Avoid using hot water, which could damage the internal tissues. The goal is to separate the wax layer from the protective, papery outer tunic without tearing the bulb scales underneath.
Once the bulk of the wax is removed, inspect the basal plate, the area where roots emerge. Any old, dried, or moldy roots sealed inside the wax should be carefully trimmed away using sterilized scissors or a sharp knife. Leave any healthy, white, or turgid roots intact, as these will anchor the plant and begin nutrient uptake once potted. Ensuring the basal plate remains undamaged is paramount, as this is the growth point responsible for all future root development.
Traditional Planting and Reblooming
With the wax successfully removed, the amaryllis bulb is ready to be transitioned into a long-term growing container. Select a sturdy, heavy pot that is only slightly larger than the diameter of the bulb, allowing about one inch of space between the bulb and the pot wall. A heavy container provides stability once the tall flower stalk emerges in subsequent years.
The bulb requires a well-draining potting mix, ideally a blend of peat moss, perlite, and standard potting soil, to prevent water retention that can lead to rot. Position the bulb so that approximately one-third of its mass remains above the surface of the soil line. This planting depth helps protect the neck of the bulb from excessive moisture and encourages proper energy storage. After firming the soil gently, provide a thorough initial watering until water drains from the bottom of the pot, settling the soil around the roots.
Following the initial bloom and planting, the amaryllis enters its vegetative growth phase, actively restoring the energy reserves used for flowering. Allow the long, strap-like foliage to grow freely throughout the spring and summer months, as these leaves photosynthesize and replenish the bulb’s stored carbohydrates. During this active growth period, provide a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every two to four weeks to support energy sequestration.
To coax the bulb into reblooming the following winter, a period of dormancy is required, mimicking its natural cycle. Around early fall, cease all watering and fertilization, which signals the plant to stop growing and allows the foliage to naturally yellow and die back. Once the leaves are completely brown, they can be trimmed, and the potted bulb should be stored in a cool, dark location, between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, for a minimum of eight to ten weeks. After this rest period, bringing the pot back into a warm, bright environment and resuming watering will initiate the growth of a new flower stalk.