A dart is a shaped tuck sewn into a garment to transform a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional form that fits the contours of the human body. Darts are used to accommodate the curves of the bust, waist, and shoulder blades, providing a tailored fit. Sewing a dart by hand offers superior control and precision, beneficial when working with delicate or highly textured fabrics. Hand stitching allows for a more subtle, flexible finish than a machine stitch, ensuring the final garment drapes smoothly.
Accurately Marking the Dart on Fabric
The foundation of a perfectly fitted dart lies in the accuracy of the initial marking, done on the wrong side of the fabric before stitching begins. Essential tools include a ruler, tailor’s chalk or a fine-tipped fabric pen, and a tracing wheel with carbon paper. The dart lines, consisting of the two legs and the apex, must be transferred precisely from the paper pattern piece onto the fabric.
The apex, the point where the dart ends, is the most important mark, as it dictates the final shape and the smoothness of the garment’s curve. After marking, the fabric is folded along the center line of the dart, bringing the two marked legs together so they align perfectly. Secure this fold with fine pins placed perpendicular to the stitching line to prevent shifting during the sewing process.
Stitching the Dart by Hand
Once the dart is marked and pinned, the hand stitching process begins, requiring a stitch that offers strength and a smooth, flexible finish. A small, consistent running stitch or a fine backstitch are suitable choices, with the backstitch providing greater durability. Using a fine needle (size 8 or 9) and thread matching the fabric ensures the stitches are unobtrusive and do not distort the material.
Begin stitching at the wide end, or the base, of the dart, which will be incorporated into a seam allowance. Secure the thread at the start by placing a small knot within the seam allowance, or use a few tiny backstitches to anchor the thread without adding bulk. Maintain a stitch length of approximately 1 to 2 millimeters to create a smooth, continuous line that will not pucker or pull the fabric.
Stitching proceeds precisely along the marked line, gradually moving from the wide base toward the narrow apex. The consistency of the stitch length is responsible for the final appearance, as uneven stitches can cause slight distortions in the fabric’s surface. The final taper requires the stitching to meet the marked apex point exactly, neither stopping short nor extending past it. This gradual reduction in distance from the fold creates the smooth, three-dimensional contour.
Avoid knotting the thread directly at the apex, as this can create a small, visible dimple or pucker on the right side of the finished garment. Once the final stitch is taken exactly at the apex, secure the thread by taking three or four tiny, overlapping stitches right at that point. Run the needle off the fold for about half an inch (1.25 centimeters) into the dart allowance, and trim the thread close to the fabric. This technique ensures the dart point remains perfectly flat and smooth.
The Final Press and Finish
After the dart has been stitched by hand, the final pressing sets the stitches and molds the fabric into its permanent, curved shape. First, press the stitched dart flat on the wrong side of the fabric, using a moderate temperature appropriate for the fiber content. This initial pressing helps to meld the thread into the fabric, removing any slight tension or puckering that may have occurred during the sewing process.
Following the initial press, the dart allowance must be pressed to one side. Vertical darts (bust or waist) are pressed toward the center of the garment, while horizontal darts are pressed downward. To properly shape the curve, a tailor’s ham or a rolled towel should be placed underneath the dart while pressing. The curved surface of the ham allows the fabric to take on the intended three-dimensional contour without flattening the delicate curve.
For garments made from thick or heavy fabrics, the bulk of the dart allowance may need to be reduced to prevent a ridge from showing on the right side. This is achieved by clipping the dart allowance open along the fold, stopping the cut approximately one inch (2.5 centimeters) from the apex. If the fabric is prone to heavy fraying, the raw edges of the allowance can be secured with a simple whipstitch or catchstitch.