Diagnosing Why Side Hair Flares
The first step in effective management is understanding the reason for the flare. A common culprit is the natural growth pattern, where hair follicles grow at a sharper angle away from the scalp, causing short strands to stand up. This issue is exacerbated during the “awkward phase” when the length is insufficient for the hair’s weight to pull it down. Dry or porous hair also lacks flexibility and expands due to humidity, increasing the flare. Finally, poor blending in a haircut, where short hair meets longer hair abruptly, can create a shelf that supports the outward projection.
Styling Techniques for Immediate Suppression
Immediate suppression relies on manipulating the hair’s hydrogen bonds while it is wet and applying directional heat. Use a blow dryer equipped with a nozzle to concentrate the airflow downward, parallel to the scalp, while simultaneously pressing the hair flat with a brush or hand. Use a low-speed setting and medium heat to reshape the root angle to a flatter, downward orientation as the hair dries completely. A paddle brush or fine-toothed comb can apply gentle tension against the scalp, mechanically forcing the hair into the desired position.
Setting the Shape
Following the complete drying process, a physical pressure technique, often called the “hat trick,” can set the new shape. Immediately after blow-drying, while the hair is still warm, cover the sides tightly with a beanie or close-fitting hat for ten to fifteen minutes. This sustained pressure cools the hair in a flattened state, allowing the temporarily broken hydrogen bonds to reform and lock the hair fiber into a position closer to the head.
Selecting Products for Control
Selecting the correct styling product adds external weight and hold to counteract the hair’s natural spring. For maximum suppression, heavy-hold products like oil-based pomades or high-viscosity styling waxes are effective. These products coat the hair shaft, increasing its mass and creating a rigid bond between strands, preventing them from springing back out.
When applying these heavier products, emulsify a small amount in your hands and work it directly into the roots and base of the side hair, pressing downward firmly. Focus the application where the flare originates, near the scalp, rather than coating the ends. This ensures the weight is applied at the point of leverage to keep the entire section flat.
If the flare is due to dryness and frizz, a lighter product such as a moisturizing styling cream or conditioning balm is more suitable. These options increase the hair’s internal moisture and flexibility, causing the strands to lie smoother and reducing expansion. While these products offer less structural hold than waxes, they provide necessary hydration to prevent the hair from becoming voluminous in humid conditions. Applying a light layer before blow-drying can also protect the hair from heat damage.
Long-Term Haircut Solutions
For a long-term solution that minimizes daily styling effort, a structural change to the haircut is the most effective preventative measure. The primary technique is proper tapering and fading of the side hair. This ensures the length transitions seamlessly from the shortest hair near the neckline to the longer hair at the top, preventing the creation of a ‘ledge’ that supports the outward spring.
If the hair must be kept at a medium length, reducing the internal bulk through weight removal techniques can lessen the flare. A stylist can use point cutting or internal texturizing scissors to remove mass from the interior of the side sections without changing the exterior length. This reduces the density that contributes to outward volume, allowing the remaining hair to drape closer to the head.
When consulting with a stylist, ask for a “tapered fade” and explicitly mention the need to “reduce the bulk.” If a specific cowlick or growth pattern is the source of the trouble, advise the stylist to either cut that area shorter or leave it slightly longer than the surrounding hair, based on the growth direction.