The mohawk is a distinctive hairstyle defined by closely shaved or very short sides contrasting sharply with a significantly longer strip of hair running down the center of the head. This dramatic silhouette has been adopted across various subcultures, from its historical roots to modern prominence in punk rock and high fashion. The style requires commitment not only to the cut but also to the daily process of shaping and maintaining its unique form. Understanding the proper techniques and products is necessary to achieve the look, whether aiming for maximum height or a more subdued appearance.
Essential Tools and Products
Achieving a successful mohawk style begins with selecting the correct equipment and styling agents. A high-quality blow dryer is necessary, as its concentrated heat and powerful airflow manipulate the hair’s hydrogen bonds, setting the shape before product application. Pairing this with a fine-toothed comb allows for precise sectioning and smooth product distribution. Sectioning clips are also helpful for isolating parts of the hair, especially when working on intricate spike formations.
Styling products fall into two main categories based on the desired hold strength. Extreme hold products, such as styling glue or high-strength hairspray, are formulated with polymers that create a rigid, durable cast necessary for gravity-defying styles. For subtler looks, medium-hold agents like pomade or light wax offer flexibility and texture without stiffness. Water-based products are generally preferred for their ease of washability, while oil-based waxes and pomades often provide a higher sheen and a stronger, less rigid hold.
Styling the Classic Upright Look
The most recognizable mohawk styles involve defying gravity, requiring specific preparation to maximize the hair’s structural integrity. Begin with freshly washed, towel-dried hair, as residual oils inhibit the product’s ability to bond to the hair shaft. Applying a heat protectant spray is advisable before using the blow dryer for initial shaping.
Creating the Fan
To create the classic Fan, the hair must first be trained to stand straight up. Flip the head upside down and use the blow dryer on a medium-high heat setting, directing the airflow from the nape of the neck toward the forehead. This technique leverages gravity to lift the hair at the root, maximizing volume. Once the hair is mostly dry and standing upright, apply a strong styling glue or wax, working it deeply into the roots of small, manageable sections.
The final step for the Fan involves creating a flat, solid wall of hair. Working from the back forward, apply a heavy layer of extreme-hold hairspray to a small section, then immediately use the blow dryer’s cool shot setting while holding the hair taut with a comb. This rapid temperature change, known as thermal setting, quickly solidifies the polymer bonds, locking the hair into a rigid, flat plane. Repeat this process across the entire strip, ensuring each section seamlessly connects to the next to form a unified structure.
Creating Liberty Spikes
For Liberty Spikes, the focus shifts from a unified wall to distinct, individual columns of hair. Start by sectioning the center strip into small, uniform squares, typically no wider than one inch. Apply a generous amount of styling glue or wax to the base of the first section, ensuring complete saturation from the root.
Twist the hair section tightly from the base to the tip, creating a narrow, cylindrical shape. Once twisted, immediately apply a layer of high-strength hairspray and use the blow dryer’s cool setting to set the spike’s shape instantly. This twisting action increases the density of the hair within the spike, providing the necessary internal support to maintain its vertical position. Continue this process for every section, ensuring each spike is fully dry and rigid before moving to the next.
Everyday and Subtler Styling
While the upright style is iconic, the mohawk cut offers versatility for daily wear through less dramatic styling methods. A popular option is the slicked-back look, which provides a polished, professional appearance while still showcasing the cut’s structure. This style is achieved by applying a medium-hold pomade or gel evenly through the center strip, then using a fine-toothed comb to direct all the hair smoothly toward the back of the head. The product’s weight flattens the hair against the scalp, creating a sleek, controlled finish that contrasts with the short sides.
For a more casual, textured appearance, the hair can be styled to fall naturally to the side or forward, often referred to as a tapered mohawk or fauxhawk style. This look benefits from products that offer texture and separation without stiffness, such as a light wax or a sea salt spray. Applying the product to damp hair and scrunching or tousling it with the fingers encourages natural waves and movement. The goal is to create a messy, lived-in texture that softens the sharp lines of the haircut.
Longer mohawks can be managed effectively using securing techniques that keep the hair contained. A single French or Dutch braid running down the center strip is an elegant way to manage length while highlighting the contrast with the shaved sides. Alternatively, gathering the entire center strip into a high ponytail or top knot is a quick method for keeping the hair off the face. These techniques rely on elastic bands or pins rather than heavy product for hold.
Post-Styling Care and Upkeep
Maintaining a mohawk involves diligent care for both the hair’s health and the cut’s definition, especially after using high-hold products. Removing extreme styling agents requires more than a standard wash, as the polymers are designed to resist water and friction. Pre-soaking the hair with conditioner or natural oil, such as coconut oil, helps to break down the product’s chemical bonds before shampooing. Following this with a clarifying shampoo ensures all residue is fully stripped from the hair shaft and scalp.
Frequent styling and the use of heat can lead to dryness and breakage, necessitating regular restorative treatments. Incorporating a deep conditioning mask once a week helps replenish moisture and protein lost during styling, maintaining the hair’s elasticity and shine. Giving the hair a break from heavy products and heat styling when possible also contributes to long-term hair health.
The sharp contrast that defines the mohawk requires consistent maintenance of the cut itself. The short sides will quickly lose their definition as they grow out, making regular trims necessary, typically every two to three weeks, to keep the lines crisp. The center strip also benefits from periodic trimming to remove split ends and maintain the desired shape and density for optimal styling.