Essential Laces and Preparation
Before beginning any lacing technique, selecting the correct lace length ensures a clean finish and prevents excessive material from dangling. Low-top Air Force 1 models typically require laces between 45 and 54 inches (114 to 137 cm) for a standard fit, depending on how many eyelets are utilized. High-top models generally need longer laces, often falling in the 63 to 72-inch (160 to 183 cm) range, due to the additional ankle support and eyelets.
The material choice also affects the final look. Flat, woven polyester laces are standard for the Air Force 1, providing a crisp, wide profile. Rope or round laces offer a more textured contrast but may not lie as flat. Preparing the shoe involves removing existing laces completely. This provides a fresh starting point and allows for inspection of the eyelets, ensuring a smoother, more uniform lace pull-through.
The Classic Criss-Cross Method
The Classic Criss-Cross method is the standard factory lacing technique, prioritizing foot security and uniform tension across the instep. Begin at the bottom two eyelets. Insert the lace straight across, usually running under the eyelets and coming out over the top. This initial placement sets the foundation for the entire pattern and prevents the lace from digging into the foot.
After the initial placement, the lace ends cross over the tongue and are fed down through the next higher pair of eyelets. To maintain a symmetrical appearance, consistently keep one end crossing over the other throughout the pattern (e.g., always having the right lace cross over the left). This consistent crossing ensures the ‘X’ pattern is neat and orderly as it progresses up the shoe.
Maintaining even tension is a significant factor in the functionality of this method, securing the foot properly within the shoe’s structure. Starting from the bottom, each crossed section should be pulled snug, but not overly tight, to allow for natural foot flex during movement. Uneven tension can lead to pressure points or cause the tongue to shift laterally.
The criss-cross pattern continues until the laces reach the second-to-last or the very top eyelet, depending on preference. At the final eyelet pair, the laces should exit the top, ready for the traditional bow knot. The bow knot is formed by creating a loop with one end, wrapping the other end around the base, and pulling the resulting loop through the central hole. This technique provides the most secure closure, locking the foot into the sole unit. The resulting bow should be centered over the tongue, with the loops and free ends being of roughly equal length for a balanced presentation.
Aesthetic Lacing Techniques
Straight Bar Lacing
Straight Bar Lacing, sometimes called ladder lacing, offers a clean, parallel look that minimizes the visual clutter of the criss-cross pattern. This technique is valued for showcasing the clean lines of the Air Force 1. The process begins similarly to the classic method: the lace runs straight across the bottom eyelets and comes out over the top.
Instead of crossing over the tongue, the lace ends are fed straight up the inside of the shoe to the next set of eyelets. One lace end is then fed straight across the outside and inserted down into the opposite eyelet, creating the first visible bar. The other lace end repeats this internal-up, external-across motion, ensuring all visible segments are horizontal bars perpendicular to the tongue.
A precise technique involves alternating which end creates the bar at each level, which helps to maintain the clean, parallel structure. This method requires careful threading to ensure the lace segments running vertically inside the shoe do not twist, which can create bumps under the tongue. The final visual result is a series of uniform, equidistant bars that highlight the expanse of the upper leather.
Loose Fit or Untied Look
The Loose Fit or Untied Look focuses purely on style, sacrificing the secure fit offered by traditional methods. This aesthetic is achieved by lacing the shoe using either the Criss-Cross or Straight Bar method, but with significantly reduced tension. The laces are threaded through all eyelets, but each segment is left slack, allowing the tongue to remain relaxed and the sides of the shoe to bow slightly outward.
The key to this style is stopping the lacing at the sixth or seventh eyelet, leaving the final eyelets near the ankle unused. This prevents the laces from becoming too long and ensures a casual drape. Instead of tying a knot, the ends are simply left to hang loosely over the sides of the shoe.
Alternatively, the laces can be tied in a simple overhand knot just above the tongue, ensuring the knot is small and inconspicuous. The long lace ends are then allowed to hang freely, contributing to the laid-back, intentionally unfinished appearance. This approach emphasizes the shoe as a fashion accessory.
Hidden Knot Finish
The Hidden Knot Finish maintains the clean look of an untied shoe while securing the foot for walking comfort. This method can be applied after the Criss-Cross or Straight Bar lacing pattern is completed up to the final set of eyelets. Instead of exiting the top, the laces are fed down into the last set of eyelets, pulling the ends inside the shoe.
Once the ends are inside, tie them together using a simple, secure double knot, keeping the knot as flat as possible. This internal knot is then tucked underneath the tongue, concealing it entirely. The result is a smooth, uninterrupted run of laces, giving the illusion that the laces are simply tucked away. For comfort, a variation involves tying the knot after the laces exit the second-to-last eyelet. The laces are then fed straight down into the final eyelet pair, and the resulting knot is hidden immediately under the tongue.