Winterizing your home’s outdoor water system prevents significant and costly damage that freezing temperatures inflict on plumbing. When water freezes, it expands by approximately 9%, creating immense pressure within pipes. This expansion force can rupture copper or plastic piping, leading to flooding when the ice thaws. Homeowners must ensure that no residual water remains in the pipes connected to exterior fixtures, safeguarding their entire plumbing network.
Identifying the Interior Isolation Valve
Locating the dedicated shutoff point for the exterior faucet (sillcock or hose bib) is the first step in this seasonal maintenance routine. This isolation valve is almost always situated inside the home, directly upstream from where the water line passes through the exterior wall. Common places to search include the basement ceiling, a crawl space, or an interior wall of a utility room near the outdoor fixture.
The valve will be plumbed into the water line supplying the outdoor faucet and differs from the home’s main water shutoff. You may encounter two types: a ball valve, which uses a lever handle that turns 90 degrees to open or close the flow, or a gate valve, which features a round, multi-turn handle that must be rotated several times. Identifying this specific valve allows you to stop the water flow to the outdoor line without affecting the rest of the house’s water supply.
Shutting Off the Water and Draining the Line
Once the correct isolation valve is identified, shut off the water flow. If you have a ball valve, turn the lever handle a quarter turn until it is perpendicular to the pipe, immediately stopping the flow of water to the exterior fixture. For a gate valve, rotate the round handle clockwise until it is completely snug and the valve is seated closed, which may take several full turns.
Stopping the water supply is only half the task; the line must then be completely emptied to prevent freezing. Between the isolation valve and the exterior wall, there is often a small cap or valve known as a drain cock or bleeder valve. Position a small container underneath this point and open the drain cock to release the water trapped in the pipe section.
The final step involves moving outside and opening the exterior faucet handle fully. Opening this handle allows air to enter the system and relieves residual pressure. This ensures that gravity pulls the remaining water out through the opened drain cock inside. This simultaneous action guarantees the pipe segment is entirely free of water, preventing expansion and bursting.
Completing the Winterization Process
With the water supply secured and the line successfully drained, attention turns to the exposed exterior fixture. Begin by disconnecting every attachment from the hose bib, including all garden hoses, quick-connect fittings, splitters, or watering timers. Leaving these items connected traps water, potentially allowing ice formation to damage the faucet’s internal mechanisms.
After removing all attachments, leave the exterior faucet handle in the open position. Keeping the handle open ensures that the valve body remains vented to the atmosphere, preventing a vacuum from forming and allowing minor moisture to evaporate. This simple action safeguards the sillcock against pressure buildup.
For additional protection, particularly in regions that experience prolonged periods of sub-zero temperatures, consider installing a foam insulating cover over the exterior faucet. These inexpensive devices, often called faucet socks, fit snugly over the fixture. They create a thermal barrier that slows the rate of heat loss and protects the metal from direct exposure to extreme cold.