Chicken and waffles, a dish pairing the savory crunch of fried poultry with the sweet, soft texture of a gridded pastry, is a celebrated staple of American comfort food. The combination is frequently presented as a classic Southern dish, often appearing on menus alongside other regional specialties. This strong cultural association leads to a common assumption about its geographic origins. However, the history of the dish is more complex and geographically diverse than its current reputation suggests, involving multiple culinary traditions and distinct regional interpretations.
The True Origins: Beyond the South
The earliest known American version of chicken and waffles did not originate in the South, but in the Pennsylvania Dutch country during the 17th and 18th centuries. This precursor dish featured stewed or pulled chicken served over a waffle, smothered in a creamy, savory gravy. This hearty, non-sweet meal, often served on Sundays, bears little resemblance to the fried chicken and maple syrup combination known today.
The modern iteration, featuring fried chicken and a sweet waffle, was popularized much later in the 1930s in Harlem, New York City. Wells Supper Club, which opened in 1938, is widely credited with making the pairing famous. The dish became a late-night favorite for jazz musicians and performers, such as Sammy Davis Jr. and Nat King Cole. They sought a meal that satisfied both dinner and breakfast cravings after their gigs, establishing this specific combination during the Harlem Renaissance.
Why the Southern Association Persists
The persistent belief that chicken and waffles is a Southern invention stems from its individual components being deeply rooted in Southern and Soul Food traditions. Fried chicken is a culinary hallmark of the South, perfected by African American cooks. Waffles were also present, popularized after Thomas Jefferson brought waffle irons back from Europe in the late 18th century, making them a feature of the “Virginia Breakfast.”
The dish’s association with the South was cemented by the Great Migration, as African American cooks moved north and west, bringing their culinary expertise. The modern version became a staple of Soul Food, a cuisine originating from African American foodways in the South. This connection to Soul Food, often broadly categorized as Southern cuisine, solidified the perception of the dish as a Southern classic, despite its popularization in Northern urban centers.
As early as 1886, a Northern newspaper referred to fried chicken and waffles as the “most complete expression of Southern culinary skill.” Food historians acknowledge the dish as having Southern culinary roots, but note its popularization occurred in places like New York and Los Angeles. Its widespread commercial success, particularly after Harlem native Herb Hudson opened Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles in Los Angeles in 1975, further spread the dish under the umbrella of Soul Food.
Modern Interpretations and Regional Styles
Today, chicken and waffles has evolved from a late-night Soul Food meal into a mainstream, high-end brunch phenomenon across the country. Chefs now experiment with both the chicken and the waffle components, moving far beyond the original simple pairing. For example, the chicken is often prepared using a 24-hour buttermilk brine to ensure maximum tenderness and flavor before frying.
Modern variations include savory waffle batters, such as those infused with cheddar cheese and bacon, or waffles made with cornmeal for a distinct texture. The traditional maple syrup is frequently replaced or augmented with complex sauces, such as ancho honey butter, spicy sauces, or dehydrated maple syrup dust. These creative interpretations highlight the dish’s flexibility and its full integration into the broader American culinary landscape.