The question of whether a car has a fuse for the trunk is answered with a definitive yes, though the fuse protects the electrical components within it, not the trunk itself. Fuses are devices designed to protect electrical circuits from damage caused by overcurrent, such as a short circuit or an overload. A blown fuse is the most common and simplest electrical failure to diagnose when a trunk component suddenly stops working. Understanding which specific circuit the fuse protects is the first step in troubleshooting a non-functional trunk release or light.
What the “Trunk Fuse” Actually Powers
The fuse typically protects one of two main electrical circuits associated with the trunk area. The most common circuit is the power trunk release or latch actuator, the electric motor responsible for unlatching the trunk lid when you press the button on your key fob or inside the cabin. The fuse is calibrated to break the circuit if the required operating current is exceeded, preventing damage to the motor or the wiring. Some vehicles use a 10-amp fuse specifically for the power trunk release.
The second common circuit is the trunk or cargo area light, which illuminates the storage space when the lid is opened. This light is often on a separate, lower-amperage circuit or sometimes grouped with other interior or “courtesy” lights. If the trunk light is the only component not working, the interior lighting circuit fuse may have failed. In some vehicles, a fuse box located in the trunk itself may protect components like power seats, airbags, or even the power trunk release.
Finding the Fuse: Location Varies by Vehicle
Locating the correct fuse requires consulting the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual, the definitive source for the exact fuse number, amperage rating, and location. Automotive manufacturers place fuse boxes in several common areas, and a vehicle often has more than one. The main fuse box is typically found under the hood in the engine bay, protecting major engine-related systems.
A secondary fuse box is usually located inside the cabin, often under the dashboard, behind a kick panel, or in the glove compartment area. This interior box typically houses fuses for accessories and cabin electronics, frequently including the trunk release fuse. Some vehicles with complex rear electronics may have a third fuse box in the trunk or luggage compartment itself. Once the fuse box is located, the inside of the cover usually has a diagram or decal that labels each fuse, often with an abbreviation like “TRUNK REL” or an icon.
How to Check and Replace a Blown Fuse
Before attempting any electrical work, the vehicle’s ignition must be turned off. To access the fuse, remove the fuse box cover and locate the specific fuse using the diagram. A small plastic tool called a fuse puller, often stored inside the fuse box, should be used to gently remove the fuse. If a puller is unavailable, needle-nose pliers can be used carefully.
A visual inspection is the simplest way to check a blade-type fuse, the most common type in modern vehicles. A blown fuse will have a visibly broken or melted metal filament inside the transparent plastic housing. If the filament is intact, the fuse is likely good, and the issue lies elsewhere. When replacing a blown fuse, use a new fuse with the exact same amperage (AMP) rating to prevent electrical damage to the circuit.
Beyond the Fuse: Next Steps in Troubleshooting
If replacing the fuse does not restore function, the problem is likely a deeper electrical or mechanical failure. The circuit may be protected by a relay, an electrically controlled switch that sends power to the actuator. A faulty relay prevents the actuator from receiving power, and a simple test involves swapping it with a known good relay of the same type from a non-essential circuit.
Another common failure point is the wiring harness that runs between the car body and the trunk lid. Because this harness flexes every time the trunk is opened and closed, the wires inside the protective rubber boot can become frayed or severed over time. If the fuse and relay are good, inspecting this flexible wiring bundle for breaks or damage is the next step. Finally, the actuator itself, which contains the electric motor that physically unlatches the trunk, can fail internally and may need replacement.