The question of where to place an exfoliator and a toner in a skincare routine is a common source of confusion. Skincare layering is a precise process where the order of application directly impacts product effectiveness. The definitive answer is that the exfoliator generally comes before the toner.
The Correct Order and Why
The fundamental principle guiding skincare application is to move from the thinnest consistency to the thickest, and from the most active ingredients to the least active. Exfoliating products are highly active treatments that address the skin’s surface layer. They must be applied immediately after cleansing.
Exfoliation removes the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of dead skin cells that acts as a physical barrier. Chemical exfoliants, such as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), dissolve the glue holding these cells together. Physical exfoliants, like fine scrubs, manually slough off surface debris. Clearing this layer allows subsequent products to penetrate the skin more effectively.
Applying toner first creates a thin film that reduces the exfoliator’s ability to interact directly with dead skin cells. This diminishes the exfoliant’s efficacy and prevents the deep cleansing action intended to clear pores. Following exfoliation, the toner serves a dual purpose: it removes residual traces of cleanser or exfoliant and helps rebalance the skin’s pH level. This rebalancing is beneficial after using acidic chemical exfoliants, preparing the skin for optimal absorption of serums and moisturizers.
Understanding Exfoliator and Toner Types
Exfoliators are broadly categorized by their mechanism of action. Physical exfoliants use small particles, such as finely milled grains or beads, to manually polish the skin’s surface. Chemical exfoliants rely on acids to achieve cell turnover, with AHAs like glycolic acid working on the surface and oil-soluble BHAs like salicylic acid penetrating deeper into the pores.
Toners have evolved significantly from the harsh, alcohol-based astringents of the past. Modern toners fall into two main groups: hydrating toners, which contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid or rose water to replenish moisture, and clarifying toners, which control oil using mild astringents like witch hazel. The primary function of a standard toner is to condition the skin and prepare it for the next steps in the routine.
An exception to the standard layering rule is the exfoliating toner, which combines the functions of both products. These formulations contain low concentrations of acids, such as glycolic or lactic acid, and are designed to be used daily immediately after cleansing. When using an exfoliating toner, a separate, stronger exfoliation step should be skipped entirely to prevent over-processing the skin. This combined product replaces the need for a separate, dedicated exfoliant and a traditional toner.
Integrating Them into a Full Routine
These products are placed within the cleansing phase of a complete regimen. The standard sequence begins with a cleanser to remove makeup, dirt, and oil. The exfoliator is the next step, whether it is a rinse-off scrub or a chemical solution.
Following exfoliation, the toner conditions the skin and prepares the surface for treatment. After absorption, the routine progresses to targeted treatments, such as serums or essences, which are lightweight and contain high concentrations of active ingredients. The routine concludes with a moisturizer to seal in hydration and, during the daytime, a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Exfoliation should not be performed daily; most skin types benefit from exfoliating only one to three times per week to avoid compromising the skin barrier. Toners, especially hydrating varieties, are gentle enough for daily use, applied both morning and night. Observe how the skin reacts to the frequency of exfoliation and adjust the schedule to maintain a healthy, balanced complexion.