Suit sizing is a standardized system designed to help buyers find garments that approximate their body measurements directly off the rack. This system uses a combination of a number and a letter, such as the notation 42S, to communicate two distinct dimensions of the jacket. The number addresses the circumference of the torso, while the accompanying letter dictates the necessary vertical proportions of the suit jacket. Understanding this specific two-part code is necessary for selecting a jacket that will fit correctly across the shoulders, chest, and overall frame before tailoring adjustments are considered.
Understanding the Number 42
The numerical portion of the suit size, in this case 42, refers to the measurement of the jacket’s chest circumference. This measurement is taken in inches according to the standard sizing conventions used in the United States and the United Kingdom, indicating the jacket is designed for a 42-inch chest. This dimension is the primary determinant of how the jacket will fit across the upper back and shoulders, which are arguably the most difficult and expensive areas to alter correctly. A jacket that is too tight in the chest will pull across the buttons and restrict movement, while one that is too loose will look sloppy and cause the shoulder padding to droop.
The 42 measurement dictates the core horizontal fit of the suit jacket, but the complete sizing includes the trousers, which are often sold as a proportional ‘nested’ set. For a size 42 jacket, the accompanying trousers typically have a waist measurement that is six inches smaller, meaning they would be a 36-inch waist. This standardized six-inch drop is an industry convention that provides a starting point for the lower half of the suit, although the trousers will almost always require adjustment for length and precise waist fit.
Decoding the Letter S (Short Length)
The letter ‘S’ in the 42S designation specifies the jacket’s overall length, indicating a “Short” cut. This letter determines the vertical proportions of the suit jacket, impacting three major areas: the sleeve length, the length of the jacket’s back, and where the bottom hem falls in relation to the wearer’s seat. The Short length is engineered for men who generally fall within a height range of approximately 5 feet 4 inches to 5 feet 7 inches, providing a better fit for those with shorter torsos and arms. If a jacket is excessively long, it can make the wearer appear disproportionately shorter, while a jacket that is too short looks boxy and exposes too much of the trouser seat.
The correct Short length ensures the jacket hem finishes neatly around the curve of the seat, which typically aligns with the base of the thumb when the arm is resting naturally at the side. Selecting the wrong length often results in sleeves that are either excessively long or noticeably short, requiring significant and potentially compromising tailoring work. Since the length affects the placement of pockets, the button stance, and the overall structural design, dramatically altering the jacket length is often more difficult and costly than adjusting the chest size.
How Suit Length Variations Affect Fit
The Short length (S) is one of three primary standard length designations used in off-the-rack suit sizing, providing context for the full range of vertical fits. The most common designation is Regular (R), which is intended for men generally standing between 5 feet 8 inches and 6 feet 1 inch tall. The third standard is Long (L), designed for individuals who are 6 feet 2 inches and taller.
These different length letters result in varying measurements for both the sleeve length and the overall jacket body length. The sleeve length on a Regular jacket is typically about one inch longer than a Short jacket of the same chest size, and the body length is extended by approximately an inch and a half to two inches. The Long cut extends these measurements further to ensure the proportions scale correctly with the wearer’s height. The primary difference between an ‘S’, ‘R’, or ‘L’ cut is how the jacket’s waist and hem are positioned relative to the wearer’s natural waistline. An improperly chosen length disrupts the visual flow of the suit, making the torso appear too condensed or too elongated.