A chemical relaxer is a treatment designed to permanently straighten naturally curly or coily hair. It involves applying a creamy chemical formula to alter the hair’s texture, making it straight and more manageable for styling.
How Chemical Relaxers Work
Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a protein with long chains of amino acids held together by chemical bonds, including hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds. Disulfide bonds are strong covalent bonds between sulfur atoms within the keratin protein, giving hair its shape, strength, and elasticity. In curly hair, these bonds are numerous and tightly packed, contributing to the curl pattern.
Chemical relaxers break these disulfide bonds within the hair’s cortex layer. The alkaline chemicals raise the hair’s pH, causing the cuticle to swell and soften, allowing penetration into the cortex. Inside, the relaxer initiates lanthionization, which permanently breaks disulfide bonds by converting them into lanthionine bonds.
After bonds are broken, the hair’s protein structure becomes flexible, and the hair is smoothed into a straight configuration. This alteration is permanent for the treated hair. A neutralizer is then applied to stop the chemical process and help the hair retain its new straight shape.
Different Types of Relaxers
Chemical relaxers are categorized by their active chemical ingredients. The two main types are “Lye” and “No-Lye” relaxers, each with different compositions and effects.
Lye relaxers, also known as sodium hydroxide relaxers, use sodium hydroxide (NaOH) as their main active ingredient. These are highly alkaline (pH 11.5-14), effectively breaking down hair bonds to straighten tightly curled hair. Professionals often prefer them due to rapid action, but they can be harsh on the scalp if not applied precisely.
No-Lye relaxers use ingredients like calcium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide. They are generally milder than lye relaxers and often recommended for sensitive scalps. However, some no-lye relaxers, especially those with calcium hydroxide, can cause calcium buildup, leading to dryness and dullness. Clarifying shampoos and deep conditioning can address this.
The Relaxer Application Process
Relaxer application is a precise process, typically performed by a professional for safety and optimal results. First, the hair and scalp are prepared to minimize irritation. A protective base cream, like petroleum jelly, is applied to the scalp around the hairline, ears, and nape, creating a barrier.
The hair is then sectioned into quadrants for systematic and even application. The creamy relaxer is applied to small sections, starting from the roots and working towards the ends, ensuring thorough saturation while avoiding direct scalp contact.
After application, the hair is smoothed into its new straight configuration. A plastic cap may be used to retain heat and moisture, aiding the chemical process. After the recommended processing time, the hair is thoroughly rinsed with lukewarm water to remove all relaxer traces. A neutralizing shampoo then stops the chemical action and restores the hair’s pH balance.
Maintaining Relaxed Hair
Maintaining chemically relaxed hair requires dedicated care. Regular moisturizing is important, as the chemical process can cause dryness. Hydrating shampoos and conditioners help replenish moisture and prevent brittleness.
Protein treatments are also beneficial for relaxed hair, as chemical alteration can weaken its internal structure. These treatments strengthen the hair shaft and reduce breakage, but should be balanced with moisturizing products to avoid stiffness. Avoiding excessive heat styling is advisable, as relaxed hair is more susceptible to damage.
Protective styling minimizes manipulation and environmental exposure, helping maintain hair integrity. This includes styles that tuck away hair ends. Touch-ups for new growth should be scheduled every two to three months, applying relaxer only to untreated new hair to prevent damage.
Impact on Hair Structure and Health
Chemical relaxers, while effective, significantly impact hair structure and health. Breaking and reforming disulfide bonds permanently alters keratin protein, reducing its natural strength and elasticity. This makes relaxed hair more prone to damage.
Increased dryness and brittleness are common, as chemical treatment can strip natural oils and disrupt the hair’s protective cuticle layer. This compromised structure can lead to breakage, thinning, and split ends, especially if improperly applied or left on too long. Overlapping relaxer onto previously treated hair during touch-ups is a major cause of damage.
Scalp irritation, burns, and inflammation are potential risks, particularly with lye relaxers, if the product contacts the skin or is not rinsed thoroughly. These issues highlight the need for professional application and strict safety protocols. Understanding these challenges and implementing diligent aftercare is key to mitigating adverse effects.