Pomade is a hair styling product that provides hold and a distinct finish, typically a noticeable shine. Dating back to the 18th century, it was known as “pomatum” and was made from animal fats, such as bear grease or lard. This initial formulation was heavy and greasy, used to mold elaborate hairstyles and wigs, and was notoriously difficult to remove.
Modern pomade has evolved, replacing animal fats with ingredients like petroleum jelly, beeswax, and mineral oils, or shifting entirely to water-soluble compounds. Today, it is favored for its ability to sculpt classic, high-hold styles without hardening the hair, allowing the user to reshape their look throughout the day.
Understanding the Main Types of Pomade
The contemporary pomade market is dominated by two distinct formulations: oil-based and water-based. Traditional oil-based pomades utilize non-water-soluble ingredients like petrolatum, lanolin, or beeswax. This waxy, heavy composition provides a strong, flexible hold that is resistant to heat, sweat, and humidity, making it ideal for enduring styles like the slick-back or pompadour.
Oil-based formulas do not wash out easily and often require a specialized degreasing shampoo. The residue, or “build-up,” can help to train the hair over time and allows for effortless restyling the following day without adding more product.
Water-based pomades use water as the primary ingredient along with emulsifiers to suspend waxes and oils. Their water-soluble nature allows them to be rinsed completely from the hair with just water, preventing the build-up associated with oil-based types. They provide a firm, all-day hold and a variety of finishes, ranging from high shine to a natural matte. Some water-based pomades may set harder and can sometimes dry out or flake as the day progresses. Variations, such as clay or wax pomades, are typically categorized under these two bases but are formulated for a specific finish, like a matte look with enhanced texture.
How to Apply Pomade for Styling
Application begins by scooping a small amount—roughly the size of a pea for short hair—with a fingertip. Rub the product vigorously between the palms to warm and “emulsify” it, making the pomade pliable and ensuring a smooth, clump-free distribution.
The pomade should be applied to clean, towel-dried hair that is slightly damp. This prevents the product from being absorbed into dry strands. Work the product into the hair starting from the back and roots, where the hair is thickest and requires the most control, gradually moving toward the ends.
Ensuring even coverage at the roots is important for styles that require volume or height, such as a pompadour. Once distributed, the desired style can be formed using a comb for a structured, slicked-back or side-parted look that emphasizes shine. Alternatively, using only the fingertips can create a more natural, textured finish, like a modern quiff or a messy style. Pomade’s non-drying nature means that the hair remains malleable, allowing for minor adjustments throughout the day.