Slab climbing is a distinct style of rock climbing where the rock face is angled less steeply than vertical, often between 30 and 80 degrees from the horizontal. Unlike the more common vertical or overhanging routes that rely on pulling strength, slab climbing is a practice of balance, precision, and friction. It forces the climber to shift their focus almost entirely to footwork and subtle body movements. The techniques used are counterintuitive to those learned on steeper terrain.
Defining Slab Terrain
Slab routes are defined by their low angle and lack of pronounced handholds or footholds. The rock surface is frequently smooth, which necessitates a heavy reliance on the friction created between the climbing shoe rubber and the rock. This terrain is sometimes referred to as “friction slab” because the ability to ascend depends heavily on maximizing this physical force.
The low-angle wall means the climber’s weight is naturally directed back and away from the rock face. This creates a constant challenge to maintain balance and keep pressure on the feet to prevent slipping. Successful navigation requires the climber to find purchase on small features like crystals, ripples, or slight depressions in the rock. Climbers must constantly “read” the rock for the most minimal opportunities for contact.
Essential Slab Climbing Techniques
Ascending slab routes is primarily a study in weight distribution and maintaining a low center of gravity. The fundamental principle is to keep the hips directly over the feet, which ensures that the majority of the body weight is pressing downward onto the point of contact. If the center of gravity shifts too far away from the wall, the feet are more likely to slide off the sloping surface.
Two primary footwork techniques are used on slab: smearing and edging. Smearing involves pressing the entire sole of the shoe onto a smooth, featureless section of rock to generate maximum friction. To execute a proper smear, the climber drops their heel to increase the surface area of rubber touching the rock.
Edging, in contrast, uses the stiff edge of the shoe on a small protrusion or crystal. This technique requires precise placement and a high degree of ankle flexibility to utilize the small feature. All movements must be slow and deliberate, as quick or jerky motions can easily cause the delicate balance to be lost. Climbers must also use their arms to help maintain balance, often pressing lightly against the wall or using small handholds to stabilize their core.
Protection and Gear Considerations
The smooth, featureless nature of slab rock often makes placing traditional protection difficult or impossible. This scarcity of secure points for gear placement leads to sections known as “runouts,” where the distance between the last piece of protection and the climber can be significant. A fall on slab terrain means the climber is likely to slide and scrape along the rock face, potentially leading to injuries from friction or hitting a ledge.
The choice of climbing shoes plays a significant role in success on this friction-dependent terrain. Shoes with very sticky rubber compounds are preferred to maximize the grip achieved during smearing. While soft, sensitive shoes are useful for feeling the subtle features, a stiffer-soled shoe can be better for hard slab climbing. Stiffer soles allow the climber to edge better on small holds without fatiguing the foot muscles as quickly.