The lapel is the folded flap of fabric on the front of a suit jacket that extends downward from the collar to the button closure. This structural element influences the suit’s formality and the wearer’s silhouette. Understanding the lapel’s construction and style is important for discerning the quality and appropriate use of any tailored jacket.
Defining the Lapel
The lapel is formed when the jacket’s front facing is folded back onto itself, creating a continuous, smooth roll of fabric. This intentional fold runs from the jacket’s neck down toward the chest, framing the shirt, tie, and accessories. The point where the lower lapel meets the upper collar is known as the gorge, which defines the junction of these two elements.
The lapel’s function is to visually draw the eye upward toward the wearer’s face and shoulders. By providing a structured frame, it helps to broaden the chest and create a balanced line down the front of the suit. The precise engineering and tension of this fold determine how the jacket lies on the body and contribute to a high-quality, tailored appearance. A well-executed lapel roll should appear soft and three-dimensional, not flat or pressed.
Common Lapel Styles
The notch lapel is the most common and versatile style, characterized by a sharp, V-shaped indentation where the lapel meets the collar. This break creates a distinct “notch” and is the standard for single-breasted business suits, blazers, and sport coats. Its balanced appearance makes it suitable for almost any professional or semi-formal daytime occasion.
The peak lapel presents a more assertive and formal visual profile, distinguished by points that angle upward and slightly outward toward the shoulders. This style is often found on double-breasted jackets, where its geometry complements the overlapping fabric and multiple button rows. The peaked design enhances the width of the shoulders and is traditionally reserved for more formal suiting and event wear.
The shawl lapel offers a smooth, continuous curve that flows without any break or notch from the collar down to the buttoning point. This uninterrupted line signals the highest level of formality. The shawl lapel is almost exclusively reserved for tuxedos, dinner jackets, and formal evening attire. Its sleek contour contributes to the classic, refined look required for black tie events.
Aesthetic Impact and Detailing
Beyond the structural style, several adjustable design elements impact the suit’s aesthetic balance. Lapel width is a key variable, with narrower lapels associated with modern trends and slimmer silhouettes. Wider lapels evoke a more traditional appearance and can balance a broader chest or larger frame.
The gorge height, the vertical position of the lapel-to-collar seam, affects the perceived length of the torso and height of the wearer. A higher gorge line draws the eye up and creates an illusion of greater height, elongating the chest area. A lower gorge line, which places the seam closer to the shoulder, is a more dated or relaxed style.
The buttonhole, often called the boutonnière hole, is located on the upper left lapel. Historically, this allowed the lapel to be buttoned closed to the collar for warmth. Today, the buttonhole is primarily decorative, used to hold a flower or a small lapel pin, maintaining a link to traditional tailoring practices.