A suit’s quality is determined by the harmonious interaction of several factors. Understanding what makes a suit excellent requires focusing on tangible attributes rather than the price tag. An exceptional suit blends superior raw materials with meticulous tailoring and sophisticated internal craftsmanship. This ensures the garment drapes naturally, feels comfortable, and maintains its shape over time.
The Foundation: Fabric Quality
The material chosen forms the basis of the suit’s performance, influencing its texture, durability, and drape. High-quality wool, such as Merino, is preferred because the natural crimp in its fibers provides elasticity and resilience against wrinkling. The “Super” number refers to the fineness of the wool fiber; a higher count indicates a thinner, softer yarn. However, a Super 150s is less durable and more prone to wear than a Super 100s or 120s, making the latter more practical for regular use.
The weave of the fabric dictates its character and longevity. Worsted wool, created using long, combed fibers, results in a smooth, crisp finish commonly used for professional suiting. Variations like flannel or tweed use different spinning techniques to create a softer, more textured finish suitable for cooler weather. Blended fabrics incorporating synthetic materials, such as polyester, should be avoided because they hinder breathability and create an undesirable sheen.
The Essential Element: Perfect Fit
The way a suit sits on the wearer’s body is the most immediate indicator of its quality and tailoring precision. The fit begins with the shoulder seam, which should end precisely where the wearer’s natural shoulder slopes downward. Since the shoulder structure is the most difficult part of a jacket to alter, it must be correct from the start to ensure a natural hang. If the shoulder is too wide, the fabric will bunch and wrinkle below the pad, a flaw known as a “divot.”
The jacket length is determined by a proportional measurement, ideally covering the wearer’s seat and ending near the midpoint of the hand when the arm is relaxed. Sleeve length should allow about a quarter to a half-inch of the shirt cuff to be visible, establishing a balanced look. The jacket’s chest and waist suppression must contour to the torso without pulling or straining across the button when fastened.
Proper fit extends to the trousers, which should fall cleanly without excessive bunching around the ankles. The “break” refers to the slight horizontal crease formed where the trouser cuff meets the shoe; a minimal or no-break style is often favored for a cleaner appearance. When standing still, the fabric should hang smoothly from the shoulders to the hemline. When the wearer moves, the jacket should retain its shape without riding up or impeding motion.
Internal Engineering: Construction Methods
While the exterior fabric attracts the eye, the internal structure determines the jacket’s long-term shape retention and how it molds to the wearer. The canvas is a foundational layer of horsehair and wool positioned between the outer fabric and the lining, providing structure to the chest and lapels. The highest standard is the full-canvas construction, where this layer runs the entire length of the jacket.
Full-canvas construction allows the suit to move organically with the wearer, gradually conforming to the body’s contours over time. This technique facilitates a superior drape by distributing the fabric’s weight evenly, preventing the jacket from appearing stiff or boxy. The canvas is stitched directly to the shell fabric, allowing the two layers to move independently and reducing strain on the wool.
A common, mid-range approach is the half-canvas construction, where the canvas is only inserted through the chest and lapel area. The lower portion of the jacket may be fused, but the upper structure benefits from the canvas’s ability to create a three-dimensional roll in the lapel. Fused construction utilizes a thermoplastic adhesive to glue a stiff interlining directly to the outer wool fabric. This method is the least expensive and fastest to produce, but the adhesive can break down over time, leading to bubbling or puckering.
Defining the Look: Stylistic Details
Beyond the quality of the fabric and construction, stylistic choices contribute to the suit’s aesthetic and formality. Lapel style is a prominent visual feature; the notch lapel is the most common choice for business and everyday wear. The peak lapel, characterized by points that angle upward toward the shoulders, is considered more formal, often seen on double-breasted jackets and tuxedos.
The width of the lapel should be proportional to the jacket’s design and the wearer’s body frame, ensuring a balanced look. Button stance, or the placement of the buttons, impacts the perceived length of the torso. A two-button jacket is the modern standard, creating a deep V-shape that elongates the chest. The three-roll-two jacket has a lapel that rolls over the top button, making it functionally a two-button style.
Vents are slits in the back of the jacket that affect movement and appearance. A single vent, centered at the back, is a casual, American style. The double vent, featuring slits on either side, offers a tailored, traditional European look and allows the jacket to fall cleanly over the seat when the wearer is seated. Pocket styles, such as the streamlined jetted pocket or the flap pocket, provide the final aesthetic accents.