A tuxedo, often referred to as a “tux” or a dinner jacket, is a specific type of formal evening wear defined by precise sartorial details that set it apart from a standard business suit. It represents the refined dress code known as Black Tie, originating in the late 19th century as a more relaxed alternative to the highly formal white tie ensemble. Evolving from the smoking jacket, the tuxedo’s features are mandated elements that govern its use in formal settings.
Defining Characteristics of the Jacket and Trousers
The fundamental difference between a tuxedo and a suit lies in the use of specialized silk facing material on the jacket’s lapels. This facing must be either a smooth, lustrous satin weave or a duller, ribbed grosgrain texture, contrasting sharply with the matte finish of the jacket’s wool fabric. Shawl and peaked lapels are the most traditional and formal styles, though some modern interpretations feature a notched lapel. All lapels must carry this distinct silk facing.
This same facing material covers all the jacket’s visible buttons. A traditional tuxedo jacket is typically single-breasted with a single closing button, or it may be double-breasted. The jacket is designed without rear vents, as these are considered a less formal detail that disrupts the clean, continuous line of the back silhouette. Pockets are jetted, meaning they are slits with no flap extending over the opening, maintaining the jacket’s sleek profile.
Tuxedo trousers possess strict specifications that distinguish them from suit pants. They must feature a single stripe of satin or grosgrain, matching the jacket’s lapel material, running down the outside seam of each leg. This stripe visually elongates the leg and conceals the seam stitches, contributing to the garment’s formal nature. Proper tuxedo trousers require the complete absence of belt loops, necessitating the use of side adjusters or suspenders. Additionally, the hem must always be plain without cuffs, as a cuffed hem is unsuitable for formal evening wear.
Essential Components of the Formal Ensemble
The formal shirt is traditionally white, featuring French cuffs that must be fastened with cufflinks. The shirt’s front placket often utilizes decorative studs in place of regular buttons, particularly if the shirt has a pleated or pique fabric bib front. The pique bib, made from a stiff geometric cotton weave, is considered the most formal option.
The waist must be covered to maintain a clean transition between the shirt and the trousers, ensuring no part of the shirt fabric shows underneath the jacket’s button stance. This is achieved with either a low-cut formal vest (waistcoat) or a cummerbund, which is a pleated silk sash. If a cummerbund is chosen, its pleats must face upward. It is considered an incorrect pairing to wear both a vest and a cummerbund simultaneously.
Neckwear is limited to a bow tie, traditionally black and often self-tied, as pre-tied versions are seen as less refined. The material of the bow tie should match the lapel facing, whether satin or grosgrain, to harmonize the ensemble. Neckties are excluded from the formal dress code to preserve the distinction and formality of the tuxedo attire.
Footwear must be black and highly polished. The most traditional options are black patent leather Oxfords or opera pumps, which are slip-on shoes featuring a small silk bow. Highly shined calfskin leather Oxfords are permissible, provided they are polished to an almost mirror-like finish. The high sheen of the footwear complements the luster of the silk facings on the jacket and trousers.