The princess cut diamond is the second most popular shape, recognizable for its sharp, geometric lines. It presents a square or slightly rectangular face-up appearance, offering a modern alternative to the traditional round brilliant. Introduced in the 1960s, this innovation is valued for its angular elegance and light performance.
The Defining Geometry: Square Face and Brilliant Faceting
The princess cut is technically described as a “Square Modified Brilliant Cut.” When viewed from above, the diamond is a perfect square or nearly square, with an ideal length-to-width ratio between 1.0 and 1.05. A ratio exceeding 1.05 results in a noticeably rectangular appearance.
This cut is defined by four sharp, uncut points at each corner, distinguishing it from other square shapes like the radiant or Asscher cut. The side profile is shaped like an inverted pyramid, with the pavilion tapering down to a point. This pyramidal base allows the cutter to retain more of the rough diamond crystal during the cutting process.
The “brilliant” part of its name refers to the faceting style, designed to maximize sparkle. Princess cuts typically feature between 50 and 76 facets, often arranged in a chevron pattern on the pavilion. This chevron faceting creates a distinct, dazzling light return, resulting in intense brilliance and fire.
Unique Advantages: Cost, Size, and Modern Appeal
The princess cut’s geometry provides several practical benefits. Its pyramidal shape closely matches the natural octahedral structure of a rough diamond. This efficient use means cutters retain a significantly higher percentage of the original weight, often yielding 60% to 80% of the rough stone, compared to the 50% yield of a round brilliant.
This high yield translates directly into a lower cost per carat, making the princess cut an economical choice, often priced 20% to 30% less than a round diamond of comparable quality and weight. The square shape also creates an illusion of greater size when set in a ring. The diagonal measurement is greater than the diameter of a round diamond of the same carat weight, making the stone appear larger on the finger.
The clean, straight lines and geometric form offer a modern and chic aesthetic. This contemporary style appeals to those seeking a sophisticated look that deviates from the traditional appearance of the round brilliant cut. Its angular shape and brilliant sparkle make it a versatile choice for various jewelry designs.
Essential Buying and Setting Considerations
The sharp, pointed corners are the princess cut’s most vulnerable feature, requiring careful consideration during setting. These corners are susceptible to chipping if struck or snagged. Therefore, a protective setting is a structural necessity for long-term durability.
Jewelers recommend using a setting that fully covers and secures these four points, such as a four-prong setting with V-shaped prongs or a bezel setting. The brilliant faceting style is highly effective at masking minor imperfections and color. This light performance allows buyers to select diamonds in lower clarity grades, such as VS2 or SI1, and still achieve an eye-clean appearance, offering cost savings.
The ability to hide inclusions is a significant advantage, but buyers should check that no flaws are located near the vulnerable corners, as this can compromise structural integrity. The depth percentage is also important for maximizing light return, with a range of 69% to 76% considered optimal.