Bleaching the knots on a wig creates the illusion of a natural scalp. When hair strands are tied to a lace base, a small, dark knot is formed where the hair is secured. These knots are often visible, especially on darker hair colors, making the wig appear less realistic. Lightening these tiny knots with a chemical process makes them less noticeable, allowing the lace to blend seamlessly with your skin tone, giving the hair a natural appearance.
Essential Materials and Setup
Selecting the correct products is necessary to avoid damaging the lace or hair. You will need a high-quality, dust-free bleach powder, often with a blue or violet tint to counteract brassy tones during lightening. This powder must be mixed with a cream developer, typically 20 or 30 volume. A 20 volume developer processes slower and is safer for beginners, while 30 volume offers a quicker lift, often necessary for very dark hair.
To prepare your workspace, gather non-chemical tools. Use a plastic or ceramic mixing bowl and a plastic spatula for stirring, as metal tools can react with bleach. You also need a small tinting brush or a plastic butter knife for precise application, and a sheet of aluminum foil. Always wear protective gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Place the wig on a mannequin head or flat surface with the lace facing up, ensuring the hair is pinned back and away from the lace area.
The Bleaching Process
The most important step is creating a thick, frosting-like paste that will not seep through the lace to the hair strands underneath. A typical ratio is one part bleach powder to one or two parts developer, aiming for a consistency similar to thick toothpaste. If the mixture is too runny, it will bleed onto the hair, causing unwanted color spots. If it is too dry, it will not process evenly. Mix the components thoroughly until all clumps are eliminated to ensure uniform chemical activation.
Begin the application by gently dabbing the bleach mixture onto the knots, applying only a thin, even layer to the lace base. Apply with a light hand, using a butter knife or the flat side of the tinting brush. Avoid any scraping motion that could push the product through the lace holes. Start at the back of the wig and work toward the front hairline, as back sections sometimes take longer to process. Once applied, cover the treated area loosely with aluminum foil to trap heat and speed up lightening.
Processing time is highly variable, so visually inspect the knots every five to ten minutes. The goal is for the knots to lift to a honey-blonde or golden-yellow color, which appears much lighter against the lace. Total processing time can range from 15 to 45 minutes, depending on the developer volume and the hair’s natural pigment. Do not rely on a set time; watch for the desired color change before moving to the next stage.
Neutralizing and Conditioning
Once the knots reach the desired shade of golden or pale yellow, immediately halt the chemical process by thoroughly rinsing the bleach mixture. Turn the wig inside out and rinse the lace area first with cool or lukewarm water, ensuring the water runs clear before the hair gets wet. This focused rinsing prevents bleach residue from splattering onto the hair strands, which could cause unwanted color lifting and weakening the knots.
Immediately after rinsing, apply a neutralizing shampoo, which is formulated to stop the bleaching action. This step restores the hair’s pH balance and removes any remaining alkaline bleach residue. Follow this with a purple or blue toning shampoo to address brassy, orange, or yellow tones resulting from the bleaching process. Purple cancels yellow tones, while blue cancels orange tones. Allow the toning shampoo to sit on the lace for five to ten minutes to neutralize unwanted warmth.
After toning, the hair strands need attention due to the chemical stress of the process. Apply a deep conditioning treatment, focusing on the lengths and ends, to restore moisture and elasticity. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time to allow the hair to absorb hydration. This final step maintains the overall texture and softness of the wig hair.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
One common mistake is over-processing, which causes the knots to lift too much, appearing bright orange or yellow, or leading to shedding and damage to the lace. To prevent this, rinse immediately when the color reaches a pale golden hue. If the knots are over-processed, they can sometimes be corrected by using a toner (like Wella Color Charm T14 mixed with a low-volume developer) or by applying a dark brown dye directly to the knots.
If the knots do not lift enough, do not simply re-apply the initial strong mixture, as this increases the risk of damage. Instead, wait for the wig to completely dry. Then, apply a freshly mixed, slightly weaker batch of bleach and developer, perhaps using 20 volume, and monitor the color closely. For brassy or orange tones that persist after neutralization, apply a highly pigmented blue or purple shampoo directly to the knots and allow it to sit to cancel out unwanted warmth. Remember that bleaching weakens the small knots where the hair is tied to the lace, so gentle handling is necessary during washing and styling to prevent premature shedding.