The La Diablada, or Dance of the Devils, is a major cultural and religious folk dance tradition originating in the high-plateau region of the Andes. This performance involves hundreds of dancers in elaborate, horned masks and rich costumes, representing a struggle between celestial and infernal figures. The dance integrates ancient indigenous Andean rites, honoring figures like the Tío Supay (god of the underworld), with Catholic representations of the battle between the Archangel Michael and the seven deadly sins. The tradition continues today as a profound expression of identity and spirituality for the communities that perform it.
The Calendar Connection
The primary factor determining the celebration of La Diablada is the Catholic liturgical calendar and the movable feast of Carnival (Carnaval). Carnival is the festive season that immediately precedes the start of the fasting period of Lent. Since Easter changes every year, the timing of Carnival also shifts annually, meaning the main Diablada performances occur on variable dates in late February or early March.
Lent begins on Ash Wednesday, which falls 46 days before Easter Sunday. Diablada performances are scheduled to culminate on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. This connection anchors the entire schedule to the lunar cycle used to calculate Easter, making the celebration a truly movable feast.
Oruro’s Carnival Timing
The most globally recognized performance of La Diablada takes place as the central element of the Carnival in Oruro. This celebration is officially recognized by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. The festival season typically runs for about ten days, with the most important events concentrated on the final weekend leading up to Ash Wednesday.
The defining moment is “Pilgrimage Saturday,” the Saturday immediately preceding Ash Wednesday. On this day, thousands of dancers, including the Diablada troupes, perform a continuous 20-hour pilgrimage along a four-kilometer route through the city. The route culminates at the Sanctuary of the Virgen del Socavón, where the dancers pay homage to the patron saint of miners.
The festivities continue through Carnival Sunday, which features a less formal but vibrant procession known as the Día del Corso. The celebrations end on Shrove Tuesday, or Martes de Ch’alla, before Ash Wednesday marks the start of Lent.
Puno’s Candelaria Timing
A major alternative expression of the Diablada is celebrated in Puno, Peru. This celebration anchors its timing to a fixed date rather than the movable feast of Carnival. Puno’s celebration is tied to the Feast of the Virgin of Candelaria, which falls on February 2nd every year.
The Festivity of the Virgin of Candelaria typically spans the first two weeks of February. It commences with a dawn mass and a purification ceremony around February 1st. The central day of devotion is February 2nd, when a grand religious procession carries the image of the Virgin through the streets.
The Diablada performance in Puno, known as the Diablada Puneña, often occurs during the Octava, the week following the central religious day. This week features the “Competition of Light Costumes,” where Diablada and other dance troupes compete in elaborate attire.