The elderberry (Sambucus genus) is a popular shrub easily propagated from cuttings. Growing a new plant from a piece of stem is an effective way for gardeners to expand their patch. Success depends heavily on timing the cutting to align with the plant’s natural growth cycle. The optimal time varies based on whether the material is taken from dormant, mature wood or from new, actively growing green shoots.
Timing for Dormant Hardwood Cuttings
Hardwood cuttings are taken from the previous season’s growth, which is mature, woody, and lacks leaves. This method is considered the most reliable for propagating elderberry and must be performed when the plant is completely dormant. The optimal window is from late fall, after the leaves have dropped, through late winter or very early spring.
In most temperate climates, this corresponds to January through March, before the buds begin to swell. Taking the cutting during this cold period ensures the plant’s energy reserves are concentrated in the stem, which significantly reduces the risk of desiccation. Cuttings should be six to twelve inches long and about the diameter of a pencil.
If the ground is frozen, the cuttings can be stored in a cool, dark place until the soil thaws. Planting should occur as soon as the soil is soft enough to work.
Timing for Softwood Greenwood Cuttings
Softwood or greenwood cuttings are taken from the current season’s new growth during the plant’s active growth phase. The best time to harvest these cuttings is generally from late spring to early summer, typically between May and July. This timing is selected after the new shoots have slightly hardened but before they become fully woody.
The advantage of softwood is that the active growth hormones can lead to faster root development, sometimes in two to four weeks. However, the presence of leaves makes the cutting highly susceptible to moisture loss. Softwood cuttings must be planted immediately into a rooting medium and require a high-humidity environment, often achieved using a clear plastic dome.
Essential Preparation and Planting Technique
Proper preparation of the stem is necessary for successful rooting. Cuttings should be taken using clean, sharp shears to prevent disease and ensure a smooth cut. The ideal length is between six and eight inches, ensuring each piece includes at least two to four nodes, where roots and leaves will emerge.
To prepare the cutting, remove all leaves from the lower half of the stem to minimize water loss. Make a slanted cut on the bottom end and a straight cut on the top end to indicate the correct planting orientation. Dip the cut end into a commercial rooting hormone powder or gel to stimulate root formation; this is especially beneficial for hardwood cuttings.
Plant the cuttings into a well-draining, sterile rooting medium, such as peat moss and perlite or sand. Use a pencil to make a hole before inserting the cutting, preventing the rooting hormone from being scraped off. The cutting must be planted deep enough so that at least one node is buried below the soil line, with one or two nodes remaining above the surface.
For hardwood, the lowest node should be buried approximately two inches deep.
Post-Planting Care for Rooting
After planting, the environment must be managed carefully to encourage root development. The rooting medium needs to be kept consistently moist, maintaining a texture similar to a well-wrung sponge. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to fungal issues and rot.
Place the planted cuttings in a location that receives bright, indirect light or partial shade. Direct, intense sunlight can overheat the medium and cause scorching. For hardwood cuttings, maintaining a cooler temperature, ideally around 40°F, helps encourage root formation before the buds break.
Softwood cuttings require higher ambient humidity, which is why a plastic covering is often used to trap moisture. Softwood cuttings may root in two to four weeks, while hardwood cuttings typically take four to eight weeks.
Rooting success can be monitored by a gentle tug on the cutting; resistance indicates new roots have anchored the plant. Once a strong root system is established, the new elderberry plant must be gradually acclimated to outdoor conditions, known as hardening off, before final transplanting.