Where Did Taiyaki Originate? The History of the Fish-Shaped Cake

Taiyaki is a Japanese street snack, recognizable by its distinctive fish shape and warm filling. This sweet treat is a cake or waffle-like batter baked into the form of a fish, most often containing sweet red bean paste, known as anko. Its history is rooted in Japan, evolving from a simpler, older sweet to become a national favorite. This journey spans over a century, reflecting a clever marketing decision that transformed a common dessert into a symbol of good fortune.

The Precursor Treat

The foundation for Taiyaki was laid by a much older Japanese confection, a round, pancake-like sweet that predates the fish shape by centuries. This simple baked dessert, made from a flour-based batter and filled with anko, first appeared during the Edo period around the 18th century in the Kanda district of Edo (now modern-day Tokyo).

The sweet was named Imagawayaki after the Imagawa Bridge, near where it was first sold. This circular treat quickly became a popular snack, establishing the basic recipe and preparation method. Taiyaki adopted the existing batter and filling, changing only the external mold to create a new identity.

The Specific Origin Story

The creation of the fish-shaped cake is credited to the shop Naniwaya Sohonten in Tokyo during the Meiji era. Founder Seijiro Kanbe opened his eatery around 1909, initially selling the traditional round sweets, but sales were struggling. Kanbe decided to innovate by changing the mold’s shape to make the treat more appealing.

After experimenting with various shapes, the sea bream (tai) shape proved successful. The name Taiyaki literally translates to “baked sea bream,” a strategic choice. The sea bream was considered an expensive, luxurious fish, often reserved for special occasions in Japan.

By shaping the inexpensive cake like the prized tai, the shop owner allowed ordinary people to enjoy a symbolic taste of luxury and good fortune. The fish is also associated with the Japanese word medetai, meaning auspicious or celebratory. This rebranding transformed a struggling product into a sensation that quickly spread across the city.

Spread and Modern Status

Following its success in Tokyo, Taiyaki’s popularity spread throughout Japan, becoming a staple of street food culture. Its fame was boosted in 1975 with the release of the children’s song “Oyoge! Taiyaki-kun” (Swim! Taiyaki), which became one of the best-selling singles in Japanese history. The treat is now common at festivals, train stations, and specialty shops across the country.

While the traditional anko filling remains the standard, modern variations have introduced a wide range of flavors. Fillings now commonly include custard cream, chocolate, sweet potato, and savory options like cheese or ham. The concept has also traveled internationally, notably to South Korea, where a similar version is known as Bungeoppang.

The fish shape has also been adapted for other desserts, such as being used as a waffle cone for soft-serve ice cream globally. This evolution demonstrates how the auspicious shape continues to adapt to new culinary trends worldwide.