A blazer serves as a versatile garment, a staple in many wardrobes that bridges the gap between formal and casual attire. However, the seemingly simple act of buttoning a blazer often leads to questions regarding proper etiquette and aesthetic appeal. Understanding which buttons to fasten can significantly impact how the garment drapes and how the wearer is perceived. Following these guidelines ensures a polished presentation.
The General Buttoning Principle
A fundamental guideline for buttoning blazers, particularly single-breasted styles, is often summarized by the phrase “sometimes, always, never.” This mnemonic refers to the top, middle, and bottom buttons, respectively, indicating their typical fastening status. The top button is occasionally fastened, the middle is consistently secured, and the bottom button should remain unfastened. Adhering to this general rule helps maintain the intended silhouette and comfort of the garment. It also prevents the fabric from straining or creating an unflattering visual break in the jacket’s line.
Single-Breasted Blazer Buttoning
The specific application of buttoning rules varies depending on the number of buttons on a single-breasted blazer. For a single-button blazer, this sole button should always be fastened when standing. This design choice is often seen in more formal wear, such as tuxedos, where a clean, unbroken line is desired. Unbuttoning is reserved for sitting to prevent creasing and allow for comfort.
For a two-button single-breasted blazer, which is a widely adopted style, the top button should always be fastened when standing. The bottom button should, without exception, remain unfastened. Fastening both buttons can create an unnatural pull on the fabric, distorting the jacket’s intended “V” shape and making it appear too tight. Modern blazers are cut with the expectation that the bottom button will not be secured, ensuring a proper drape.
Three-button single-breasted blazers follow the “sometimes, always, never” rule directly. The top button is optional, depending on personal preference or if it interferes with the lapel’s natural roll. The middle button is always buttoned when standing, as it is crucial for defining the waist and maintaining the jacket’s shape. The bottom button should never be fastened, consistent with the principle applied to two-button jackets.
Double-Breasted Blazer Buttoning
Double-breasted blazers present a distinct set of buttoning conventions due to their overlapping front panels and multiple rows of buttons. Unlike single-breasted styles, double-breasted jackets generally remain buttoned at all times, even when seated, to preserve their structured appearance. First, fasten the internal “anchor” or “jigger” button, which helps hold the inner panel in place.
After securing the anchor button, the main visible exterior buttons can be fastened. Typically, all functional buttons are secured, except for the very bottom button, often left undone for a more relaxed line or to elongate the torso. Some double-breasted jackets are classified by a “number-on-number” system, like “6×2” (six total buttons, two functional), where the functional buttons define the fastening points. The most common approach involves buttoning the middle row of functional buttons, providing a flattering silhouette that defines the natural waist.
Situational Buttoning
Beyond specific button configurations, practical considerations dictate when a blazer should be buttoned or unbuttoned. The primary rule here is to unbutton your blazer when sitting down. This prevents creasing, maintains the garment’s shape, and enhances comfort. Sitting with a buttoned blazer can strain the buttons and seams, potentially damaging the garment over time.
Conversely, when standing, re-button the blazer according to its appropriate style. This ensures a polished and put-together appearance, aligning with traditional sartorial etiquette. While some modern or very casual settings allow leaving a blazer fully unbuttoned when standing, this deviates from classic formal presentation. Maintaining the buttoned state when standing projects a cleaner, more tailored silhouette.