The question of who invented hair braiding does not point to a single person or moment in history, but rather to origins spanning tens of thousands of years across multiple continents. The history of this practice is a complex cultural tapestry, demonstrating that the technique was independently developed and adopted by diverse human populations worldwide. This ancient form of hair manipulation served not just as a style, but as a profound method of non-verbal communication and cultural preservation.
The Deepest Roots: Prehistoric Evidence
The earliest known archaeological evidence suggesting the practice of hair braiding dates back to the Upper Paleolithic period in Europe. This evidence is found in the form of small, carved figurines known as Venus statuettes. The Venus of Willendorf, discovered in Austria and dated to approximately 28,000 to 25,000 BCE, features a head covered in a repeating, woven pattern.
Similarly, the Venus of Brassempouy, a fragmentary ivory carving from France dated to around 26,000 to 24,000 BCE, displays a checkerboard-like pattern on its head. This pattern is widely interpreted by archaeologists as a representation of either a braided hairstyle or an intricately woven cap. These findings confirm that the technical skill required for braiding was present in Paleolithic Europe, making it one of the oldest known forms of textile art.
The Cradle of Braiding: Ancient Africa
The most significant and earliest cultural evidence of braiding is rooted in the African continent, where the practice evolved into a sophisticated social art form. The earliest known artistic depiction of cornrows, one of the oldest braiding styles, was found in a rock painting in the Tassili Plateau of the Sahara. This depiction, showing a woman with cornrows feeding her children, dates back to approximately 3500 BCE.
In many African societies, a person’s braided hairstyle functioned as a visual language, communicating hyperspecific details about their identity. The intricate patterns could signify a person’s tribe, age, marital status, wealth, or social rank within the community. For example, among the Yoruba people, cornrows were sometimes referred to as Kolese, meaning “a creature without legs,” referencing the way the braids lay flat against the scalp.
Braiding was often a communal and time-intensive activity, sometimes taking hours or even days to complete. These sessions fostered social bonding, allowing for the sharing of stories, traditions, and wisdom between generations. The Himba people of Namibia, for instance, have used a mixture of ochre, butter, and herbs to create their distinctive red-pigmented braids for centuries.
Braiding in Ancient Civilizations
Beyond Africa, the practice of braiding spread and was adapted by other major ancient civilizations, often to denote status and religious adherence. In Ancient Egypt, dating back to around 3100 BCE, braids and braided extensions were used extensively by the elite. These elaborate styles were frequently adorned with gold thread, jewels, and beads to symbolize wealth and high social standing.
The Egyptians also used braids in ceremonial and ritual contexts, believing that certain hairstyles could ward off evil spirits. Later, in Ancient Greece and Rome, braids were incorporated into complex updos that reflected social class and modesty. During the Roman Flavian period (69–96 CE), wealthy women favored towering, intricate hairstyles that often featured braided sections woven over wire frames.
Braids as Resistance and Modern Identity
A later chapter in the history of braiding occurred during the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans brought their ancestral braiding traditions with them, transforming the hairstyle into a tool for survival and resistance. Cornrows became a practical necessity, keeping hair manageable and clean during the harsh conditions of forced labor on plantations.
More significantly, the patterns of the braids were used as a covert means of communication and cartography. Specific cornrow designs were used to map out escape routes, signaling paths to freedom or safe houses along the Underground Railroad. Enslaved women also braided seeds and grains into their hair before being transported, ensuring they would have food to plant and sustain themselves upon reaching new, unfamiliar lands.
Today, braids remain a powerful symbol of cultural pride, resilience, and a tangible link to ancestral heritage for the Black community. Modern styles like box braids and Fulani braids continue this tradition, celebrating the enduring legacy of an art form that has survived centuries of oppression.